Choosing a Boarding Facility

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com



While the perfect horse ownership scenario would have your horse happily ensconced in his pasture or barn right outside your backdoor, many horse owners do not own a farm or other sufficient land and find it necessary to locate a boarding facility to house their horse. But how do you go about selecting a boarding facility and how do you know if it is the right one? Before any consideration or selection of facilities is made, you must remember this one key statement: There are no perfect boarding facilities-- period. If it was perfect, it would be on your own land. Keeping this very important statement in mind will help you when it comes time to choose the facility that's right for you.

It is important to make personal visits to several boarding facilities to evaluate them for safety and suitability. Pastures need to have safe fencing and be clutter free. Go into the stalls and check out the water buckets; are they clean with fresh water? Evaluate the stall flooring and the type of bedding that is used. Is it suitable for what you like used for your horse? Are there any exposed electrical wires hanging down in the stalls? Any exposed nails? Talk not only to the barn managers, but also to any boarder who may be there to get their opinion of the facility. If the barn manager bristles about your talking with another boarder, consider that a bad sign and mark that facility off of your list. Ask questions, ask questions, and ask questions. Will the facility be responsible for providing grain and hay? Inspect the quality of the grain and hay. Will they do the feedings, or will you be responsible for feeding? How many times a day will your horse be fed? Will they feed your supplements or feed additives? Who will have access to your horse? How many people are on staff? What is the experience level of the boarding staff? Does the management share your vision of acceptable/accountable horse care? What is the contact procedure for any emergency that may arise? Will they call your vet or use the vet that comes to the barn? In the event of injury, will they provide the daily care for your horse? Will your horse be stall boarded or pasture boarded? Will your horse be turned out? Does the barn arrange for vet and farrier visits? Is there room for you to park your horse trailer (if applicable)? Does the facility have individual tack storage areas? Are the pastures safe and clutter-free? How many horses will be turned out on pasture together? Are the horses segregated based on gender (i.e., mares, geldings, stallions)?

What are the rules of the barn? Some boarding facilities may be lax on their rules and others may be over- bearing; you need to choose which will better suit your tastes in being told what to do and when to do it.

What kind of facility is it? Does it offer lessons? Does it have indoor and outdoor arenas? Does it have other amenities that you like, or dislike? What type of boarder keeps their horse there? If you are strictly a trail rider and the facility houses mostly show horses, you may not find the atmosphere conducive to garnering friendships with anyone there or you may feel there is no connectivity between you and others.

How will your horse fit into a boarding facility? Is he one that is used to being turned out with several other horses or is he used to being alone or with only one other horse?

If a signed boarding contract is required, read over the contract carefully and then re-read it. All of the rules of the facility should be listed in the contract. Everything that management expects from you, the boarder, should be spelled out in the contract. If no boarding contract is required, it may be best to go elsewhere. Get references from the barn manager. Phone the references to get their candid opinions of the boarding facility, its operation, and its management. Inquiries can also be made from local vets and feed stores of area boarding facilities.

If the above questions can be answered to your satisfaction, then finding the boarding facility right for you and your horse just got easier. If the questions cannot be satisfactorily answered, you need to continue your search or find a good realtor who can sell you a prime piece of farmland where you can put your horse right outside your backdoor.

Happy trails!

The Old Gray Mare, She Ain't What She Used to Be - She's Much Better: Caring for the Geriatric Horse

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com



Along with today's increase in recreational horse ownership also comes an increase in the number of geriatric-aged horses who now easily live well into their 30's. This increase in aged equine longevity can be attributed to the better knowledge of horse health management that responsible horse owners have obtained and applied through their many years of horse ownership. Good health care and nutrition keeps many of our equine senior citizens happy and productive through much of their elderly lives.

The importance of good health care and appropriate nutrition for geriatric horses is greatly evident based upon the natural time-factored breakdown of a horse's system as they reach geriatric age (15+ years). Older horses are more greatly susceptible to problems from parasitic infestations, infectious diseases (Cushings), colic, enteroliths (stones in the intestinal track), choke, laminitis, founder, tooth problems (extensive wear, breakage, abscesses, or tooth loss), weight gain/loss, decreased digestive ability, cardiovascular illness, arthritis, and stress. Routine bi-annual veterinarian examinations are prudent for geriatric horses and should encompass a complete blood work-up, body scoring, fecal parasite count, dental exam, evaluation of the gastrointestinal track, lungs, eyes, feet, legs, joints, inspection of the body for melanoma tumors or other suspicious growths.

Good nutrition is of utmost importance when caring for the geriatric horse, as many of the above-listed problems can be tied directly to nutrition. As in the geriatric populations of many species, the horse has a problem with digestion and requires an easily digestible food that is also highly nutritious and meets the needs of his aging body. Senior horses require feeds that are softer and easier to chew, yet are higher in protein and easily digestible carbohydrates low in starch. Probiotic supplementation will aid in preventive measures to ward off the development of health problems. Laxatives can aid in keeping the intestinal track moving; however, it is important that the laxative used not upset the intestinal water concentration in the hind gut. You don't want to induce diarrhea, which will lead to intestinal complications and weight loss.

A geriatric horse's health can deteriorate rapidly; therefore, it is a good measure to be diligently attentive to her daily appearance and behavior, making notes of any little changes you might see (listlessness, not eating/drinking, posturing, etc.) This may assist your vet in determining a problem if a call must be made for a farm visit. One of the biggest problems with geriatric horse health involves their teeth. Always be attentive to your older horse's mouth, especially if you notice her not eating or if she has really bad breath, which will be indicative of an abscess infection.

Exercise is a very important factor in keeping your geriatric horse in good health. Keeping her on a regular and routine exercise plan will naturally aid her ability to stave off any arbitrary health conditions attributable to inactivity.

Being ever vigilant and knowledgeable about the care your senior horse requires will prevent life threatening illness and keep her in your barn and heart for years to come.

Happy trails!

Effective Pasture Management for Small Acreage Farms

By Darlene M. Cox

Living close to and working in the Horse Capital of the World (Lexington, Kentucky) provides me many opportunities to drive through 'horse country' and enjoy the beautiful picturesque views of horses grazing on rolling carpets of thick, lush, green grass from virtually weed-free pastures. These beautifully maintained pastures are in stark contrast to the ones that may be found on farms of smaller acreage that many recreational horse owners have. It is possible, however, for your small, family-owned farm to mirror, on a smaller scale, those Kodak-moment inspired pastures of Kentucky 's Thoroughbred industry.

I recently had an opportunity to converse with a senior grounds keeper of one of the more prestigious and renowned horse farms in Kentucky about pasture management and how effective pasture maintenance plans could be utilized for smaller farms. Regardless of the number of acres to be managed, it all boils down to the same fundamental practices:

§ Soil samples should be taken to determine fertilizer requirements. Based upon the testing results, a lime-potassium- phosphorous fertilizer should be applied. This application can be done at any time during the year; however, it is important to have the soil sample results prior to fertilizing, because applying too much fertilizer cause harm to soil. Nitrogen should be applied to pastures late in the fall to set up the pastures for a healthy growth of spring time grass.

§ Fecal egg counts should be done on your horses to determine the number of parasites that may infest pastures. Along with adherence to a timely and effective de-worming schedule for your horses, you should also 'drag' pastures to break up manure piles and expose any parasitic eggs to the sun, which will effectively kill off the parasite.

§ Begin preparation and planning of your spring pastures in the fall. If you seed your own pastures with your own implements, make sure the equipment is in good repair and ready to go. If you hire it out to someone, schedule a firm date with no more than a week's window time to ensure the pasture prep work is done timely. Fall is best for seeding cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, orchard grass) and late winter or really early spring is best for seeding clover.

§ Managing damage control to pastures on small acreage farms is tantamount to growing season productivity. During winter and the early spring wet season, horses should not be turned out, as to stave off the mud and muck build-up and destruction of grass root systems. One viable alternative is to partition off part of the pasture for use during inclimate seasons. The reasoning behind this is it's best to lose part of your pasture than all of it. If this is not a feasible solution, you can also minimize damage by rotating hay feeding locations. It is also a good idea to limit any vehicle traffic (i.e., farm truck, tractor, manure spreader, etc.) during this time period.

§ The acreage size and the number of horses on your pastures will affect the amount of usage you get from your pastures. It is important to maintain an appropriate horse-to-acreage ratio. Farms with smaller acreage need to be more closely managed related to the amount of grazing time permitted. Horses are the ultimate grazing machines, as they were created with that specific purpose in mind. Horses are continuous grazers; simply put, if grass is in front of theme, they are going to eat it. A horse will consume as much as 2% to 2.4% of their body weight, per day, in grass, (i.e., a 1200-lb horse will eat between 24 - 28 pounds of grass per day). Effective rotation and/or dry-lotting your horses to allow your pastures time to rebound and will help keep them established. Pasture rebound time can vary between location and time of year. Generally, 20 days minimum should be allowed for pastures to 'rest' before horses are placed back on them.

§ The grazing season in Kentucky can run from March (when the cool-season grasses really start coming on) through November (when the first killing frosts of winter arrive). This is nine months of grazing time that requires proper management to keep the grass yield and health of your pastures at an optimal level to best benefit your horses. An effective pasture rotation system can be undertaken with the implementation of segmented pasturing, which breaks up the whole pasture into multiple segments from which the horses will be rotated from one to the next, allowing previously grazed segments to recover and gain new grass growth, while out competing the growth of new broadleaf weeds. Effective rotation cycles will also disrupt parasite cycles.

§ An effective broadleaf weed herbicide should be applied in early spring, while the weeds are still small. A high emphasis is placed on properly using the herbicide and applying the recommended amount. As with any chemical, read and follow all labeling instructions prior to use. I realize that many owners of small farms may be hesitant to implement an herbicide program on their pastures for fear of harm that may befall their horses; however, the efficacy of herbicide programs is quite evident when looking at Kentucky 's horse farms, which house the world's most expensive Thoroughbred horses. It is evident and apparent that an accurate and efficient herbicide application program can be successfully implemented whereas not to adversely affect the lives and well-being of horses housed on these farms.

Utilization of the above pasture- management principals will aide in keeping your pastures healthy and established throughout the year. You may even have the perfect green back-fall for your own Kodak moment.

Happy trails!

Foal Watch: The Signs of Foaling

By Darlene M. Cox

Many of us who have owned broodmares can attest that there are certain signs that indicate foaling time is near. These signs most generally will fit into a time frame ranging from weeks, days, and hours to foaling.

It is best to start out with a general knowledge of when a mare was bred. Foaling is most likely to occur when a pregnancy reaches the gestational age between 320 and 370 days. Some folks may believe their mare is overdue once she reaches 345 days, with day 340 or 341 being the mean average. Remember that the gestational clock is run by the foal's internal battery, which will induce labor once the foal has adequately and sufficiently developed in utero.

Impending birth signs and their time span prior to foaling are estimated as follows:

• 2 to 6 weeks - the mare's teats and udder will begin to swell and enlarge. Sometimes (in maiden mares, particularly) the udder and teats may swell and recede a couple of times. I've never noticed this occurring with established broodmares.
  
• 1 week to 2 weeks - The croup muscles around the tail dock and vulva of the mare will begin to relax and feel "spongey." The vulva may appear swollen when it is relaxed.
  
• 4 to 6 days - The mare's udder will fill with milk and the teats will become engorged.
  
• 2 to 4 days - Waxing (leaking or streaming of colostrum) will form on the teats.
  
• Hours to minutes - The mare will appear agitated and restless, even colicky-acting. She may bite or kick at her sides, or lay down repeatedly. Sweating may be obvious.

These signs, in their entirety, may or may not be exhibited by all mares. Most particularly of these are waxing and milk engorgement. Some mares do not wax at all and may not show signs of milk engorgement until shortly before birth.

Of particular noteworthiness is how each mare individually exhibits these signs. The impending birth signs a maiden broodmare exhibits will most likely stay with her throughout her breeding career. Interestingly, a mare will tend to deliver around the same timeframe, give or take an hour or two.

For those who are awaiting new arrivals this spring, good luck to you during your foal watch. I hope you are able to be witness to such a splendid event.

Happy Trails!

Answering a Cast(ing) Call

By Darlene M. Cox

As a horse owner, one circumstance you will most likely encounter will be assisting your horse when he becomes ‘cast’, which means when he has laid down in some fashion and is unable to get his feet under him in order to stand.

A horse can be severely injured and even die if he lays cast for a long period of time.

Horses are not designed to lie down for a long period of time and will have difficulty breathing if cast very long. Weight and the physical make up of his body will put a lot of pressure on his lungs causing suffocation. A horse may also twist a gut when thrashing around trying to free him. Cuts and abrasions may also be sustained from his struggles.

Casting situations may present themselves in a variety of ways. A stalled horse may find himself cast when he lies down and rolls. This most often will occur in stalls with dirt floors that have a dip or swale in them. The horse’s back will be in the depression with his hind feet against the wall. A similar scenario can happen in a paddock or field, with the horse finding his legs cast under a fence railing or through the wire mesh. Occasionally, a horse will find himself cast in a field when he lies down on an incline with his head pointing downhill and feet uphill. I’ve most often seen field casting in mares heavy in foal and older arthritic horses. I’ve even seen a horse cast in a trailer.

Depending upon the horse, this can be a pretty scary situation, both for the horse and his owner. Desensitizing your horse to having his feet entangled or held down by something will be valuable training if he finds himself cast, as he will remain calm until help arrives to free him from the predicament.

Don’t panic if you find your horse cast. Assess the situation before going in and trying to free up your horse. If your horse is in a panic and is thrashing his legs wildly, do not get around his feet, as you could be seriously injured. Cover his eyes with something (e.g., a towel), as this will be somewhat calming, and speak softly. In some casting situations, moving the horse’s head and shoulders will be enough for him to get his feet under him and allow him to stand. For others, it may be necessary to pull a leg or two around. Do not directly approach your horse’s legs. Instead, it is best to approach your horse from behind his back and loop a rope around the fetlock of the leg that is against the ground (or wall). Occasionally, you may need to loop ropes around both the front and rear ground-sided legs. Do not tie the rope. The loop will prevent the horse from injury as he struggles to stand or if he becomes more panicky. A tied rope may tighten causing injury or your horse may become further entangled in the rope whereby exacerbating the problem and causing additional panic. Once the loop(s) are in place, simply pull the horse over and away from the object that may be casting him. Step back quickly after you have rolled the horse free, as he will be in a hurry to stand.

Once your horse is standing and has calmed down, assess him for any injury that may have occurred from any struggles while cast. Pay particularly close attention to the heel bulbs, coronet bands, fetlocks, pasterns, knees, and hocks. Check for cuts, abrasions, and swelling.

I hope this article will be helpful to you if you answer your cast(ing) call.

Happy Trails!

Think Before You Dose

By Darlene M. Cox

It is interesting how we horse lovers and owners can equate human-related health incidents into equine-related health issues. Recently, my daughter had a throat infection for which the doctor did not prescribe antibiotics, as he thought the infection was viral. Viral infections, caused by viruses, do not respond to antibiotics as these medications are explicitly used to combat bacterial infections.

While it may seem proactive to treat acute illness with antibiotics, such treatment may be contributing to a greater harm – the development of super germs that are antibiotic resistant. This resistance occurs when the bacteria changes its metabolic form making it impossible for the antibiotic to be effective in weakening or killing the bacteria allowing the horse’s natural immune system to battle it .

Have there been times when you may have self-diagnosed your horse and placed him on antibiotics you had in your tack room medical box? However, is this the right antibiotic to use, and is it the right dose? With the growing misuse and over-prescribing of antibiotics, more resistant strains of bacteria are developing. Such resistant strains can be very difficult to treat as the majority of antibiotics are not effective against them; therefore, it is important that antibiotics be prescribed by a veterinarian who has examined your horse and can determine which specific drug, if any, is best suited to treat the infection. The best way to determine what organism is the culprit in an infection is to culture it.

Antibiotic use can also cause problems of their own: pain, swelling, and abscess at an injection site, diarrhea in young horses, and allergic reactions to certain drugs are the most obvious problems that come to my mind. While these medications are greatly effective, it is best they be prescribed by your veterinarian.

Proper use of antibiotics will ensure effective and successful treatment of many bacterial infections and will most importantly abate the creation of additional super germs that are threatening not only our horses, but also we humans.

Happy trails!

Sarcoids in Horses

By Darlene M. Cox

When I purchased my appaloosa gelding five years ago, he had a warty-like blemish under his eye. At the pre-purchase exam, my vet told me this was a sarcoid, which is the most highly diagnosed type of benign (non-cancerous) tumor a horse can have. A second sarcoid later appeared on his canthus. Some breeds of horses are more prone to sarcoids, and of course, appaloosa was amongst that list. My vet advised me to keep an eye on it and that we wouldn’t need to do anything to it unless it started to grow.

I researched the equine sarcoid and learned that while the cause is not necessarily known, although it is suspected to be a papillomavirus most likely akin to bovines, it can be a very tenacious tumor to get rid of. There are four types of sarcoid: flat (occult) that looks like a flat, scaley lesion; verrucous (warty), appearing like a raised wart; fibrablastic, appearing as an easily irritated mass, subjected to bleeding; and a mixed form, one with two or more of the four types. The flat and sometimes verrucous types of sarcoid may not grow bigger or evolve into the fibroblastic type; they may remain statis or may even regress. The fibroblastic type, however, is the most aggressive type, and the one less likely to respond well to treatment. Skin that has received some type of trauma (cuts, injuries, incisions) may be prime sites for the formation of sarcoids. Many geldings present with sarcoids on their scrotal sac after having been gelded. The prime areas for sarcoids to appear are anywhere on the head, on the belly, or legs.

Since my gelding’s sarcoid was increasing in size, I decided it was time to investigate the types of treatment available for them. I was greatly concerned that even with treatment the sarcoid may come back. Treatment options range from surgical removal, cryotherapy, and immunotherapy. I found all of these options very pricey and equated through research that they may have to be repeated several times before the sarcoid was completely removed.

Luckily, my research and digging around led me to a product called Xxterra, which is an all natural, herbal remedy for equine sarcoids. I phoned the Colorado-based veterinarian who developed the product and discussed this treatment option with him. I purchased a jar of the Xxterra ($110) and began applying it over the sarcoid for five days straight. After the five days, I applied it every other day for a total of 10 treatments. After the fourth day, you could see the sarcoid and surrounding skin react to the topical dressing. After the 6th treatment, the skin was beginning to slough away and was hard and dry to the touch. After the 10 treatments, the old skin had completely sloughed off, but I could still see the ‘base’ of the sarcoid.

I bought a second jar of the compound and applied it as I did the first. At the end of this treatment session, the sarcoid was completely gone.

After the treatments had ended, I placed another call to the vet in Colorado and discussed the treatment plan.. I provided him with some positive feedback that I felt the application process should be modified to discontinuing the applications until the old, dead skin sloughed off, and treatments resumed with the product being placed on the base of the sarcoid after the first sloughing period ended. Doing it this way would possibly require less usage of the product and a reduction in expense.

While I don’t know if my treatment recommendation, why appreciated by the vet, was actually placed on the jar (there is a loss of revenue to be realized here, right?), I do know that others to whom I have referred use of this product and who subsequently used my treatment regimen, were able to rid their horses of sarcoids with only one jar of Xxterra.

Regardless, this product and treatment is much less expensive and invasive than the other options available.

Have You Seen My Horse?

By Darlene M. Cox

Recreational trail riding and camping has increased exponentially over the last few years, with many avid horse lovers making the necessary purchases to enjoy the welcoming pleasures that exist for them in the numerous state and federal forests.

Those who delve into this wonderful past time spend a fair amount of money on the required wares; namely, horse(s), truck, trailer, tack, and other supportive accoutrements. As with any item of value there is always the risk of theft.

If you are unfortunately victimized, report the theft immediately. If your horses are missing from their pasture or barn, presume they are stolen and report it to the appropriate authorities. After you have placed the call, then go look for them. If you find them in your neighbor’s hayfield enjoying an afternoon snack, no harm, no foul. You had initiated the wheels of action in the event they had been stolen.

If you arrive home to find your horses and tack missing, phone in your theft report and do not disturb anything while you wait for the authorities to arrive. Fingerprints can be taken from stall doors, gates, etc. to help the authorities apprehend the thieves. Responding law personnel are trained to interpret crime scenes and any disruption of involved items may skew their interpretation.

The tried and true saying of “the best defense is a good offense” is a good strategy to employ in keeping your property safe, or in the event of thievery, being able to identify your belongings. After the theft has occurred, your horse(s) and tack can be difficult to find unless you can positively identify them.

Photographs can greatly simplify any identification process. Photos coupled with a written detailed description enhance the ability to prove ownership. Engraving and/or marking your name, address, driver’s license number, and/or social security number on saddles, bridles, blankets, etc. will further assist the identification process. I would recommend making such engravings in an inconspicuous place; one not easily noticeable and therefore subject to erasure or scratching out.

Color photographs of your horse are most important. Take the photos from every angle and every side, including a photo of their head. Make sure you get photos of all markings and significant details (scarring, eye color, etc.)

Branding and/or tattooing your horse(s) is an excellent identification tool to prove ownership.

Housing your tack behind a sturdy, padlocked door will deter would-be thieves, especially if you use the type of padlock that cannot be cut. They are a little pricey, but well worth the investment.

Sturdy locks will also protect any belongings you may have in your horse trailer while you are on the trails. If you have an entrance to the living quarters part of your trailer from the horse box, padlock the exterior stock door to prevent outside access. Placing a hitch lock on your trailer will prevent someone from driving away with it.

Motion sensor lights in and around your barn will thwart some thieves who prefer to do their dirty work under the cloak of darkness. Security cameras can provide evidentiary video tape to aid in identifying suspects and vehicles. I have also seen strategically placed baby monitors as effective theft deterrent tools.

Driveway access gates are a deterrent to thieves who prefer to have their vehicle within easy access. While a padlocked gate may be a small headache for you to navigate on a daily basis, an electric gate may be a nice pain reliever, as well as an effective tool preventing uninvited access to your property.

Always be aware of any ‘strangers’ or strange vehicles in and around your barn. Someone innocuously petting your horse through the fence may actually be ‘casing’ your barn. Some unknown, friendly person striking up a conversation and asking you questions about your horse may be filing away the information for later use. Write down license plate numbers from any vehicles such unknown persons may drive off in. Advise your neighbors that you have seen suspicious people in the area, making them aware to promote their watchful eyes, too.

If you board your horse at a communal barn, know which horses belong to whom. Unrecognized visitors should be questioned about their being on site and association with any horse they may have on the end of a lead shank. How easy can it be for someone to confidently walk up to a horse and load it into a trailer and drive off? Just like some housing districts have neighborhood watches, barn watches can equally deter would be thefts.

Nothing protects a barn better than a barking dog. Many thefts have been thwarted by yappy canines. Remember, thieves prefer to quietly come and go. A barking dog greatly heightens the probability of them being caught in the act.

Pasture bound horses are an easy target for thieves. Driving up to a roadside gate or simply cutting a fence will allow access. Don’t make it easy for the thieves. Place heavy chains and padlocks on all gates. Routinely check the chains and locks to ensure their stability. Do not put watering troughs or feed buckets on or near exterior roadside fences. Horses will congregate where they are fed or watered. How much easier could it be for would-be thieves to take the horses from where they stand? Instead, feed and water the horses along an interior fence or at the barn. A would-be horse thief is less likely to walk across a 60-acre field to steal a horse.

Taking appropriate measures to protect your prized investments will allow you to sleep better at night.

Happy trails!

Santa, I Want a Horse for Christmas

By Darlene M. Cox

Yes, mom and dad, your little one may indeed be considering asking the jolly, old elf to bring him a horse this Christmas. But, how do you know he is really ready to have a horse of his own? Is he ready for the responsibility of horse ownership? A horse isn’t like the bicycle he received for his birthday that now forlornly sits resting awkwardly against the side of the garage, unnoticed and unused for weeks.

Realistically, it will be you, mom and dad, who will bare the lion’s share of caretaking responsibility for any equine that Santa and his reindeer places in your barn. Are you ready for the task? Therefore, when Santa’s assistant contacts you to advise you of your child’s Christmas wish, you may want to ask yourself the following questions:

1. Does my child possess a real desire to own a horse? One way to be affirmatively assured of your child’s love for horses would be his incessant conveyance about wanting a horse of his own or other outward indications that he truly enjoys them. Does he ride stick horses around the yard? Does he draw pictures of horses in play? Does he pretend to ride a horse when he watches a western on television? Does he often point out pastured horses as you speed by them in your car?
   
2. What is your child’s experience level with horses? Has he been exposed to horses on a regular basis? Perhaps you own other horses. Does your child assist with grooming or feeding chores? Will he require riding lessons? If so, from whom will those lessons be given? I recommend that lessons be obtained from a reputable trainer who has experience with teaching children to ride. Lessons given to children students are offered in a different format than those given to adult students. I would recommend that you interview the trainer and visit their barn to determine their level of training experience. Steer clear of your neighbor down the road who happens to own a horse and would be more than willing to let your child learn to ride on his horse. If your child has spent some time in the saddle, what riding experience level has he reached? Will the gift horse match your child’s experience level? It is important that you purchase a horse that will match the child’s level of riding experience. A horse that is too advanced will intimidate your child, and may even pose hazardous risk of injury.
   
3. How committed are you to the care the new horse will require? Where will the horse be kept, at your own barn/property or at a boarding stable? If in a boarding situation, will your monthly finances support the care and upkeep required? The purchase price of the horse will be the least expensive when stacked up next to the care and upkeep over a period of time.
   
4. What ultimate goal do you envision for your child and his horse? Trailriding, 4-H Club, showing, jumping, Jr. rodeo?

Basically, it all comes down to your parental judgment and personal assessment of your child and his true desire to own his first horse. If the questions above can be answered truthfully and with positive answers indicating that conditions are right; and if you know your child to be one who handles responsibility and commitment well, then have no doubts he will be able to understand the important aspects of horse ownership. Then by all means, approve the Christmas wish list and tell Santa which stall he should leave the horse in on Christmas Eve.

Oh, and don’t forget to have plenty of film in your camera to catch those special first moments when your child discovers his very own horse looking at him from over the stall door.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Trails!

I’d Rather be an Honest Loser than a Sore Winner

By Darlene M. Cox

The recent news stories declaring that for the first time in 62 years a World Grand Champion was not crowned at this year’s walking horse Celebration in Shelbyville , Tennessee has prompted me to write this article on the soring of Tennessee Walking Horses.

For those who may not know the meaning of the term ‘soring’, it is defined by the USDA as follows:

The application of any chemical or mechanical agent applied to the lower leg or hoof of any horse that causes pain, or, can be expected to cause pain, for the purpose of “enhancing” the horse’s gait for show purposes is strictly prohibited under The Horse Protection Act, as amended (15 USC SS 1821- 1831).

As a disclaimer, I am not implying that every single competitor/owner/trainer in the Tennessee Walking Horse show world is guilty of utilizing such heinous and inhumane actions to give them an “edge” over those who naturally train their horses. There are many trainers (if not the majority thereof) who have built and maintained their training regimen matching their training abilities to the natural talent of the horse, with a good mix of repetitive conditioning and time.

In my opinion, the time required to train a top level competitive horse is what induces some trainers to use abhorrent soring measures. These trainers decide to take the easy way out and have a horse ready to compete in the fraction of time it takes to train naturally.

There are many ways to sore a horse, but the outcome of each method is the same – torturous pain. Horses that are sored do not have a natural gait, because their gait is altered and exaggerated due to pain. A forcibly sored horse cannot bear the pain in his feet and lower legs and will dramatically raise his front legs higher and reach in deeper with his hind legs to redistribute as much possible weight onto his hindquarters, which is the result the trainers are looking for.

Generally speaking, the majority of sored horses compete in the padded or “Big Lick” competitions; however, other classes (plantation, flat shod, etc.) have their share of sored horses, as well. Soring occurs in many competitions, not just the high-dollar shows like the Celebration; it is a factor in the small county events as well.

The “Big Lick” horses’ training starts at a young age when long yearlings (18 months old) are first placed on “baby stacks”, which consist of a pad, a wedge pad, and a keg shoe. These “babies” are also ridden at this age with no consideration given to their underdeveloped legs and back. I have heard many walking horse trainers ascribe that Tennessee Walking Horses mature quicker than other horses. Rubbish, says I.

From my personal viewpoint, it is not hard for a spectator in the stands to tell that a competing horse has been sored. The agony and pain is written all over its face, with ears pinned to its neck, eyes racked with anguish, and nostrils flared and quivering. Yet an easier way to discern the evil doing is to pay a visit to the show barn, if you can gain access. Let your senses (eyes, ears, and nose) tell you the truth. The smell of chemicals will be the first thing that assaults you. Next you will hear the moaning and groaning of horses in pain. Take a look around the immediate area; is that a roll of plastic wrap there on that bench? Hmmm, what could that be for? If you are able to look into the stalls, you will see horses that are lying down. Some may be standing up (or are they sitting down?) with their hind legs so far under them to take the pressure off of their front legs. Look into their faces; you will see the pain.

While I am sure there are more, I personally know of three products that are used to chemically induce the desired soring effect. Diesel oil is the soring agent most generally used by the new small-time illicit trainer, as it is by far easier to get than the other chemicals. It is most effectively used in combination with chains. The other agents are what I define as “graduate level” agents; unscrupulous trainers will move to the more intense oils once they discover how the chemicals make their training jobs easier.

The first graduate level agent is mustard oil, which is a very dangerous product. Along with its soring properties, mustard oil is also highly carcinogenic and can cause genetic mutations. It is easily absorbed through the skin and will sometimes be paired with DMSO to speed up the absorption process. The mustard oil/DMSO concoction is applied to the coronet band and on up the front leg halfway to the knee. The leg is then wrapped with plastic wrap, with regular leg wraps placed on top to hide the plastic wrap. The wraps are left in place for several hours to allow the chemical to ‘cook’ into the horse’s legs. This chemical agent can cause a myriad of medical conditions such as colic, convulsions, and/or heart attack. Pregnant mares have aborted foals or had stillbirths when this chemical agent was used on them. Interestingly, this chemical also has possible health implications to the person applying it. Headache, coughing, nausea and vomiting may be triggered if the person inhales the chemical fumes.

Croton oil is the second, which is also carcinogenic and can cause genetic mutations. It is applied similarly to the mustard oil, but it must be diluted with kerosene before application since is a much stronger agent and works somewhat differently in that it affects deep tissue. Horses sored with this agent may be able to pass DQP or USDA inspection since deeper tissue is involved and not the first layer of skin. Regardless, the horse will still suffer the soring effects and will respond with the desired gait. When Croton Oil is used with DMSO it can eat away flesh to the bone. Similar exposure symptoms of headache, coughing, nausea and vomiting may be experienced if exposed to the vapors.

There are other methods of soring aside or in conjunction with chemicals. Chains (of varying weights) are placed around the horse’s pasterns (generally in combination with a chemical) to induce the horse to pick up his feet. Bloodied pasterns are a common sight on horses that return to the barn after a training sequence.

Foreign objects will be placed under the pads against the frog of the foot to inflict pain with each step. The object that is most often used is a sawn-in-half golf ball.

Pressure shoeing is utilized by trimming the hoof wall down to the quick and then placing the shoe over it. Each time the horse takes a step, his nerve-sensitive hoof wall comes into contact with the shoe and causes severe pain.

Road foundering is basically the same process as pressure shoeing with the added torture of riding the horse up and down a paved road, which adds to the pain. You will see a lot of this road riding before competitions begin. I am sure some of the riders who are riding are legitimately warming up their horses; however, I’d bet the farm that some are road foundering their horses.

Hot nailing is a method employed by installing the horseshoe nail very close to the sensitive ‘white line’ of the hoof. The nails are then covered up with the pads to make them undetectable. Sometimes screws are used in place of the nails, in the event the inspectors use a fluoroscope to detect the presence of ill-placed nails. The screw can be ‘backed out’ before the scope, to avoid detection, and then screwed back in before the competition.

I have often wondered how any reputable farrier would purposely pressure shoe or hot nail a horse. It seems to me it would go against the grain of the “no hoof, no horse” saying of the farrier world.

The above-mentioned techniques (and who knows what others) are employed as heinous acts by individuals with one thing in mind – winning, regardless of the painful price the horse has to pay through its suffering. The most heart-breaking affirmation that hits home with me is that even though such cruel, inhumane, torturous, and painful tactics are undeservedly inflicted, that horse will perform with such a great heart and desire to please. And folks, if that doesn’t bring a tear to your eye . . . well, I just don’t know what to say.

Conditioning Your Horse for Trail Riding

By Darlene M. Cox

Trail riding is fast becoming a great American past-time and recreation. Many people who have always possessed a love for horses and nature have combined these two wonderful elements into beautiful camping and trail riding weekends or vacations. Trail riding is an event that allows whole family participation.

With time being a limited commodity in our lives, we may find ourselves loading up the family and horses and heading out for a lovely weekend or more of riding. Anyone who has been in the saddle for hours can attest that it can definitely take its toll on your body when you aren’t used to straddling a horse for hours on end. Keep in mind that as hard as it most assuredly may be on you to adjust yourself to these occasional jaunts in the saddle, it is even harder on your horse if he has not been properly conditioned for trail riding.

You cannot take a ‘pasture potato’ horse that is used to leisurely grazing and lazing away his days at home communing with his pasture mates and insert him into a high performance position requiring hours under saddle, whereby he has to navigate over rocks and deadfall trees while climbing or descending steep hillsides and expect him to be at “peak performance” or condition for such riding. Doing so will put your horse in harm’s way of injury or certain medical conditions as colic or tying up. Equivocate the stress your unconditioned horse would endure on such a ride as described above as what you would suffer if you entered a mini-marathon unprepared and unconditioned. You wouldn’t start your season off with the mini, rather you would begin walking/running in smaller, incremental distances.

When conditioning my horse for an upcoming ride I will begin riding them three days a week for at least a half hour each day. This time will be increased to one hour each day the next week an hour and a half the third week and leveling off at to two hours the fourth week. A general rule of thumb that I have used is that by the end of the conditioning period, a daily ride of about half the distance of an average day on the trail is sufficient. In other words, if my average ride on the trail is four hours in the saddle, the conditioning period should be composed of two hours. Each session is begun lightly on the lounge line and then progressing under saddle at a walk, then with sustained trotting first at :05, :10, :15, and :20 intervals. After each interval of trotting I will slow to a walk to allow my horse’s heartbeat to slowly come down to normal. To adequately work all muscle groups, I will alternate the lead the horse is on. I rarely canter my horse during these conditioning workouts, as I believe his cardiovascular workout is best heightened at the trot. Each session is ended at a walk with my horse’s heart rate close to a resting normal.

I also utilize conditioning over ground obstacles that will require my horse to pick up his feet to step over them. I will place these obstacles at various places, to better simulate what my horse may encounter on the trail. I have found the implementation of this particular type of conditioning very helpful as it further builds my horse’s endurance ability. You will most likely notice that your horse is fatigued when he begins to stumble when stepping over trail obstacles. A fatigued horse is one more likely to suffer a fall or injury when stepping over this obstacle. It is easy to understand why this is true, again by using ourselves as an example. How would we perform clearing obstacles after we have worked beyond our conditioning level? And once we stumble, aren’t we too tired to avoid the spill that is destined to happen?

Equally important to the amount of exercise conditioning that your horse receives prior to a trail riding trip is an appropriate feeding ration. Horses that are overweight going into their conditioning period should have their grain intake reduced and, possibly, their conditioning regimen increased. For horses that may be thin going into the conditioning period, the grain amount should be increased, with the conditioning time remaining consistent. Exercise coupled with increased grain will bring a thin horse into an acceptable condition.

Incorporating the above conditioning sequence or modifying it to meet the needs for the type of riding you do with your horse will ensure that you both will be better able to tackle the obstacles encountered along the miles of trail you will traverse and to avoid any unnecessary injuries that may be sustained if you don’t prepare for them. Ride safe, ride sound.

Happy trails!

To Breed or Not to Breed; That is the Question

By Darlene M. Cox

You know spring has come not only with the arrival of longer, warmer days, greener grass, blooming flowers and budding trees, but also when you start seeing the beautiful foals dot the countryside. If you happen to live in Central Kentucky, as I do, you see quite a few of those. Ahhh, there’s nothing like seeing those playful little fillies and colts cavorting around the pastures to make those who own mares ponder whether they should send their mare to the breeding shed.

There are some questions you should ask yourself prior to rushing home and whisking your mare off to ‘equimonial’ bliss. I believe the most important question to ask yourself is why. Why do I want to breed my mare? I suppose your response to this question could be comprised within one of the following:

• Well, she is a mare.
  • Hmmm, true that. But there are a few things to consider beyond her equine feminism. Does she possess conformational and behavioral attributes that would be good to pass along to her foal? If not, it may be best to pass on breeding her as foals generally mirror the behaviors of their dam. Does she have a positive breeding history? If she has been bred previously, did she have any problems through her pregnancy? Was she a good mother? Some mares just aren’t cut out to be good mamas. Nothing could be worse than watching your mare reject her foal. Is she healthy? If your mare is not in good health (i.e., under weight, over weight, colicky, etc.), breeding her would put too much stress on her for the 11 months she carries the foal and the birthing/mothering process.
    
• Oh, it would be so great to have a foal and watch it grow up.
  • It is true that raising a foal can be great fun and a wonderful adventure, but you need to make sure you are experienced and well-read in just how to do that. Foals can be a handful and can present with some problematic situations you don’t have with older horses. If this would be your first time breeding for a foal, I would recommend reading up on just what to expect and what is required as it may be a little more of an investment that you would want to make.
    
• Wow, I could make a lot of money by selling her foal!
  • This could be true if your mare possesses skills and breeding and is bred to a stallion that also possesses remarkable talent and breeding. If this is the case, then you would have a viable reason to consider breeding. However, before you start counting your money, be advised that unless you do have an impressively-bred dam, likewise a prestigiously-bred stallion, and a hungry market for the foal, you won’t make nearly the amount you dream of making. In some cases, depending upon what obstacles the foal may encounter before he reaches selling age, you could lose money.
    
• I could breed her to Billy Jo Bob’s stud for $50 Surely I can make that $50 back.
  • True, you can breed your mare to Billy Jo Bob’s stud for that small fee, and you would be almost certain to make that amount back. But ask yourself this question, will the foal produced from this breeding be of better quality than both its dam and sire? If you cannot breed for improved quality in the foal, it will not be a good breeding, regardless of that rock-bottom stud fee. The killer market is saturated with horses that are a result of poor breeding (i.e., conformational anomalies, inherited bad behavior issues, etc.)

Once you have adequately and positively answered why, there are other issues to consider as well.

• Premise safety.
  • Are the premises upon which the foal will be raised (barn, fencing, pasture, etc.) safe? Foals are experts at finding ways to injure themselves even in the safest of environments. If the premises harbor dangers, you are guaranteed vet bills.
    
• Financial stability
  • You will incur additional expenses when breeding your mare. Examples are: additional vaccinations breeding mares should have; stud fees; veterinarian fees - checking to see if the mare is ‘breeding sound’, checking to see if she is in foal after breeding (this could be either the form of uterine palpitation or ultrasound), intervention if there are problems with the pregnancy (in utero twins, colic, abdominal tearing, vaginal discharge) or delivery (retained placenta, laminitis, uterine/vulvular tears); doctoring the foal might need after delivery (pre-mature birth, dummy foal syndrome, jaundice, infection or herniation of the umbilicus, diarrhea, etc.); vaccinations for the foal; registration of the foal (if papered), etc.

After you have effectively questioned yourself on why you want to breed you mare and are assured you can comfortably support, care, and afford the new addition, then it’s time to start planning for the breeding. Keep in mind that a mare who carries her foal to term will not deliver for 11 months. Timing is important if you want to assure that the foal is born during the spring/summer.

Good luck with your breeding, and oh, don’t forget to send pictures! ;o)

Happy trails!

Have Horse, Will Travel

By Darlene M. Cox

The 2006 riding season has arrived, and I am sure many of us are chomping at the bit to load our horses in the trailer and hit the road destined for our favorite riding spots. It is important that you keep trailer and hauling safety in mind each time you hitch up. Following are some guidelines that will assure your trailer is safe to use throughout the season. Also thrown in are some helpful hints in making your horse as comfortable as possible while hauling.

• Pre-season maintenance.

  • Well before the riding season begins inspect your trailer and have appropriate maintenance performed (Utilize the service of a reputable trailer service if you are unsure how to perform these tasks.)

    • Tires and Wheels

      • Inspect and re-pack all wheel bearings

      • Inspect all tires, including the spare, for wear, dry rot, and air pressure. Rotate tires. Replace is well-worn.

    • Electrical wiring and electrical braking system

      • Inspect electrical wiring and electrical braking system.

        • Make sure all of your turn signals, brake lights, and marker lights are in working order.

        • Ensure that electrical braking system engages correctly and doesn’t lock up or delay to respond. Make adjustments or replace electric brake box as needed.

    • Brake hardware.

      • Inspect braking hardware for wear and tear. Replace as needed.

    • Inspect trailer flooring.

      • Make sure wooden flooring is solid and strong with no rotting or loose boards.

      • Inspect welds on steel flooring to ensure they are holding well and not rusting out.

      • Replace any worn rubber mats.

    • Gooseneck or bumper-pull Jacks

      • Grease the jack on your gooseneck or bumper pull tongue and ensure that it is working properly.

    • Check the trailer for leaks around the seams. Caulk any you may find.

    • Inspect trailer ties and ensure that the quick release mechanisms are operational. If they are rusted closed, you will either want to replace them or spray them with lubricant so they can be easily released.

    • Check for wasp/yellow jacket nests that may have been built while the trailer was not used. I check for these each and every time I get ready for a trip. It doesn’t take any time for these opportunistic insects to move in and defend their nest.

  • Taking your trailer for a pre-season test drive is a good way to check for troublesome problems and get you reacquainted with pulling a trailer.

• Pre-trip inspection for each time you haul. I will check lights, tires, jack locks, doors, etc. each time I stop (i.e., fuel stops, bathroom breaks, lunch breaks, etc.)

  • Lights

    • Check all signal, brake, and marker lights.

  • Brakes

    • After you have loaded up and are pulling away, check your brakes to ensure you have the setting on the tension box adjusted for the load you are pulling. Different tension settings are required for varying weight differentials. I adjust my setting as I pull out the long driveway from the barn and before I hit the highway.

  • Jack locks

    • Make sure the jack is locked securely onto the bumper or ball hitch.

  • Box gate

    • Inspect the box gate after you have loaded your horse to make sure it is securely closed and locked. If you have a slide gait as well, make sure it is securely fastened.

  • Living Quarters or Tack Compartment Doors

    • Make sure these doors are securely fastened

  • Tires

    • Inspect air pressure on your tires and check for any visible blemish or bulge.

• After-trip maintenance

  • Clean out horse box of any manure, urine, shavings, hay, etc. either by sweeping or hosing. If you hose it out, remove your mats so the floor will completely dry.
    Inspect tires for any damage or wear issues. It’s always easier to replace/repair tires after one trip and before another than it is to realize such is required on the day you plan on hauling.

• Truck maintenance

  • Just as important as trailer maintenance, your hauling vehicle should also be appropriately serviced for pulling. Oil changes (engine and rear differential), transmission fluid flushes, fuel system flushes, etc. should be routinely performed.

  • Tires and brakes should be inspected and serviced as required.

  • Ball plates and bumper hitches should be inspected for stability and safety.

• Safe transport of your horse.

  • Securely fasten your horse with quick-release trailer ties.

    • Always keep a pocket knife handy in the event of an emergency, regardless of the fact that you have the quick-release ties.

  • Your horse’s head position should be low enough where he cannot entangle the trailer tie on his feet/legs. Never high-tie your horse in a trailer. He needs to be able to get his head low to clear his lungs. If you’ve ever noticed horses with runny noses and a cough after hauling, it’s because their heads were tied too high.
    Most horses ride well if they have hay to munch on during the trip. It soothes them and gives them something to do. Make sure that the hay bag is safely secured at a height where the horse cannot get his feet tangled in it. Keep in mind that an empty hay bag lengthens. Also, ensure that your horse can comfortably reach the hay bag, but can also move his head away from it if he chooses. This will prevent him from breathing chaff (dirt, dust, and hay) into his lungs. Utilizing a fly mask will also keep debris out of his eyes.

  • If you are hauling only one horse in a straight load trailer, place him on the left hand side of the trailer. This will ensure hauling safety as the trailer will be balanced. Right-side loading will make the trailer off balance and you will run the risk of flipping your trailer.

  • Ventilation. There should be plenty of air movement in the trailer for your horse. Remember, he’s riding in a metal box. If there is no air movement, the box will heat up quickly. The heat is compounded if you are hauling several horses, as they will generate a lot of body heat due to the fact that their muscles are working to brace themselves during the ride.

  • Drive slowly, smoothly, and carefully. It takes more time to stop a fully loaded trailer than it does to stop your vehicle when not towing. Feather the brakes when you stop, to avoid throwing your horse forward. Sudden lane changes and erratic driving will ad undue stress on your horse.

  • Have a lead rope available for each horse in the event you have to unload them in an emergency.

  • Never lock the doors to the horse box in the event an emergency unloading is required.

  • If you stop somewhere during your transit (for lunch, bathroom break, etc.), park in the shade. Offer your horse water if you are hauling for several hours.

  • Remember that hauling is stressful to horses. If you haul for several hours (4 or more), I would recommend not riding your horse for that day. He should be allowed to relax and de-stress. You could avoid potentially dangerous health conditions (colic, tying-up) by allowing him this time of rest.

Implementing the above maintenance and hauling recommendations will assist your safe arrival at your riding destination or your return home.

Happy trails!

It’s Spring . . .Time to Vaccinate Your Horses

By Darlene M. Cox

Spring has arrived and with its glorious return the time has rolled around again for annual vaccinations for our equine friends. Following an annual protocol of vaccinating your horses will assure them a healthy life in which they are protected from many potentially costly, if not fatal, diseases. These diseases are: Equine Encephalomyelitis (Eastern, Western and Venezuelan), Equine Influenza, West Nile Virus, Rhinopneumonitis (EHV1 and EHV4), Rabies, Strangles, Tetanus, Potomac Horse Fever, Equine Protozoal Myeloencephalitis (EPM), Rabies, and Botulism.

While there are many vaccines available on the market, it may not be necessary to administer the entire gambit to your horse. Geographical location risk levels and how you use your horse can be factored in to determine which vaccines are the best to give.

Depending upon how you use your horses (i.e., show/contest, trail ride, never take them off the farm, etc.) it is wise for horse owners to administer vaccines that will optimally protect their horses. If you have a new-to-you horse whose vaccination history is unknown or vague, you would want to treat him as never having been vaccinated, whereby this horse would need to receive the initial series of vaccines adhering to the required administrative timeline. If you will be traveling out of your region, research what vaccinations may need to be given to guard against diseases indicative to the area you will be traveling to.

My own personal vaccination plan for my 13-year old appaloosa trail horse whom I ride in Kentucky and Indiana is as follows: 6-way combination vaccination protecting against Eastern, Western, and Venezuelan Encephalomyelitis, Equine Influenza, Rhinopneumonitis (EHV1 & EHV4), and Tetanus Toxoid; West Nile Virus; Strangles; Potomac Fever; and Rabies.

If you are unsure that your vaccination plan is not up to par, or if you want to make sure you are vaccinating your horses timely, you may wish to visit the following website showing the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) vaccine recommendations:

http://www.vet.upenn.edu/schoolresources/communications/publications/bellwether/62/horse_vaccination.html

Vaccination programs work! Prior to vaccinations against Encephalomyelitis (Eastern) and West Nile Virus (WNV), Kentucky had many horses infected with these diseases. In 2005, there were only 9 cases of WNV in Kentucky, compared to 513 cases in 2002. (http://www.kyagr.com/state_vet/ah/programs/equineprogs/02WestNile.htm.) The last reported case of Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE) occurred in 1995, http://www.kyagr.com/state_vet/ah/programs/equineprogs/EEE_surveillence_report.htm. These numbers speak volumes; effective immunization programs have eradicated these diseases in Kentucky.

Don’t be “pennywise and pound foolish” in thinking that vaccines are a waste of time and money. The cost of vaccinations is nil compared to what it will cost should your horse(s) contract one of these diseases.

Vaccinate your horses and prepare for a year of happy healthy riding.

Happy trails!