Recognizing the Signs of Laminitis

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Laminitis is most likely the disease for which veterinarian treatment is most often sought by horse owners of every ilk and discipline. While laminitis is a very painful disease that affects a horse's feet, the exact cause for it may lie in another part of the horse's body or it can be a result of stress. Laminitis is believed by some to only affect the front feet; however, as in the case of Barbaro (TB), winner of the 2006 Kentucky Derby, it compromised his hind feet and ultimately led to the decision of his euthanization. Another notable great who had succumbed to laminitis was Secretariat. Laminitis occurs when blood flow is disrupted to the laminae in the foot, which secures the coffin bone to the hoof wall. The laminae within the hoof becomes inflamed and swollen putting pressure on the coffin bone, shifting it downward, or rotating it, toward the sole of the foot. While it is not completely understood how the damage to the laminae occurs, a number of preceptors have been identified in setting the stage for laminitis. The most prevalent of these is poor digestion, which enables toxins to form and enter the horses's bloodstream. Falling within the poor digestion category are horses that have engorged themselves with grain or lush green grass, which puts their digestive systems in a quandary. Post-partum mares that have retained a portion of placenta will have increased blood toxins that could trigger an acute laminitis episodic event. Diseases such as Cushings or hypothyrodism are two medical conditions that initiate the onset of laminitis. Corticosteroid therapies may generate the development of it, as well. Hoof impact stresses on hard surfaces may spark-off an attack of laminitis. Barbaro was felled by laminitis due to the stress his near-hind foot bore while his badly broken off-side leg was placed in a cast. There are two stages of laminitis: acute and chronic. Recognizing the signs of laminitis and immediately contacting your veterinarian will greatly increase your chances of your horse healing and/or surviving his bout with laminitis. An acute stage is the sudden onset of laminitis. Signs of acute laminitis include the following:

• Lameness in front and/or hind legs. Particularly noticeable when your horse turns in a circle.
• Heat in the hoof
• Increased digital pulse in the feet. (You can find the digital pulse by palpating the inside or outside of the leg toward the back of the mid-pastern or fetlock.) A strong pulse will be indicative of laminitis. If you are unsure what you are feeling for, I suggest you 'practice' finding the digital pulse on a healthy horse. While such a pulse will be very slight, you will know where and how to find it if your horse has a laminitic episode.
• Hesitant walking or the appearance of "walking on eggshells".
• Standing position with front feet stretched out and hind feet well under the horse bearing most of the weight.

Chronic laminitis occurs in a horse that has had previous acute onsets of the disease. Signs of chronic laminitis may include:

• Dished hooves (caused by uneven hoof growth)
• Bruised soles
• Rings in the hoof wall
• Dropped soles/flat feet
• Wide white line (seedy toe)
• Blood pockets and/or abscesses (usually seen with seedy toe)

If you believe your horse has laminitis, phone your veterinarian immediately. Limit the movement of your horse to prevent further damage or rotation of the coffin bone. Pain management will be the first treatment administered, as laminitis is very painful. Additional treatments may include the use of anti-toxin medications, meds that will increase blood circulation, and x-rays to evaluate the extent of rotation. Convalescence and healing will take weeks, if not months; however, if you obtained medical intervention quickly, it is very likely that your horse will be able to be ridden again. Much depends upon the degree of rotation, if any. Any marked rotation of the coffin bone, as evidenced by x-ray, will require a convalescent period upwards from 8 months, which is the amount of time required for the damaged areas to grow out. If there was no rotation, your horse may be able to be ridden after two months of rest and healing. Prevention of laminitis, whenever possible, is the best cure. Properly house your grain in an area that is not accessible to your horse. Do not turn your horse out on a lush green pasture. If your horse is overweight, establish an exercise regime for weight loss. Implement nutrient supplements into your feeding plan to enhance digestibility of foods; proper and timely hoof trimming providing a well-balanced foot will offset chances of any mechanical stress triggers; inspect the placenta (after birth) of your mare, calling your vet if any pieces appear missing. Quick action on your part will increase the chances of your horse returning to a productive life. As always, stay vigilant and observant of your horse's behaviors and actions, as these will be your first clues to an impending problem.

Happy trails!

Before the Snow Falls: Getting Your Barn Ready for the Winter

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

While it may be hard to fathom during late summer or early fall that snow will be blowing; winter will be here before you know it. Now is the time to prepare your barn for the winter months. Anticipation for the cold season ahead and advanced preparation for such will make the transition into the winter season much easier and safer for you and your horses. Here are a few suggestions on how to transition your barn from summer to winter:

• Clear the clutter. Clean out your tack room. Inventory your tack and grooming implements. Toss the ones that are worn or broken. Recoup some cash for those that you may have duplicates of (Ebay, garage sale, tack auction, etc.). Clean up aisle ways, wash bays, indoor arenas. Remove stall fans to storage, inspecting them for any damage to electrical cord and components, Discard if any are noted. Store light-weight sheets and blankets, replacing them with winter blankets to have readily available for those cold and frigid turnout mornings. If any blanket needs to be repaired, now is the time to do it. If the aisle way to your barn is pea gravel, you may consider bringing in a new load and raking it smooth to provide for stable and dry footing over the winter months. Warm weather delivery serves the dual purpose of advance preparedness and prevents muddy tire trenches that may result from winter time gravel delivery.
• Inventory your medicine cabinet and cleaning/grooming supply chest and remove any items that will freeze or somehow be adversely affected or damaged by cold temperatures. This would be a good time to take note of what medical or grooming supplies you might need to replace or purchase explicitly for winter-time usage.
• Indoor air quality is very important to horses and humans alike during the winter months. Dispose of old hay and bedding. Sweep out dusty hay loft floors; de-cobweb stalls and aisle ways, particularly around lighting fixtures.
• Inspect all electrical components. Make sure your outlet boxes are cleaned of cobwebs and dust, and are securely mounted. Inspect outlet ports for power, noting those that are not working properly as the wiring may need to be inspected by an electrician. Inspect wiring for any wear and tear. If damage is noted, contract a licensed electrician to replace. Inspect electrical cords of any electrical implement that may be used. Replace all fuses and double check that the correct fuse is installed appropriately (i.e., if the slot in the electrical box calls for 10 amp fuse, don't put a 30 amp fuse in). Check the circuit box for weak circuits. Fire/electrocution hazards can be prevented by replacing weak circuits and blown fuses. Inspect fire extinguishers for charge. Replace batteries in existing smoke detectors. If you don't have smoke detectors, consider installing them. Inspect any electric water-heating devices for wear and damage. Discard and replace if any is noted.
• Insulate any exposed water pipes with spray polyurethane foam, do not use electrical tape. Replace water hose with one that does not freeze.
• Prepare stalls for usage by installing stall mats or bedding that will alleviate the build up of excessive ammonia from urine. Ammonia can damage your horse's lungs and be a major contributory factor for upper respiratory infection. The rule of thumb is: if you can smell ammonia, the damage has already been done. Re-working the stalls will also provide better footing and prevent possible casting incidences.
• Check all the hardware (latches, hinges, etc.) on stall doors to ensure they are not damaged or in need of replacement. Horses have been seriously injured by damaged stall door hardware.
• Eliminate excessive draftiness. While you do not necessarily want an air-tight barn, neither do you want one that is so drafty your horse may be inordinately chilled. Seal any major air leaks in stalls by repairing/replacing boards and/or window shutters.

Being proactive and prepared for the upcoming winter season will ease you into winter with a lot fewer worries during those cold winter nights when you know your horses are comfortable and warmly bedded down in their stalls. Happy trails!

Choosing a Boarding Facility

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com



While the perfect horse ownership scenario would have your horse happily ensconced in his pasture or barn right outside your backdoor, many horse owners do not own a farm or other sufficient land and find it necessary to locate a boarding facility to house their horse. But how do you go about selecting a boarding facility and how do you know if it is the right one? Before any consideration or selection of facilities is made, you must remember this one key statement: There are no perfect boarding facilities-- period. If it was perfect, it would be on your own land. Keeping this very important statement in mind will help you when it comes time to choose the facility that's right for you.

It is important to make personal visits to several boarding facilities to evaluate them for safety and suitability. Pastures need to have safe fencing and be clutter free. Go into the stalls and check out the water buckets; are they clean with fresh water? Evaluate the stall flooring and the type of bedding that is used. Is it suitable for what you like used for your horse? Are there any exposed electrical wires hanging down in the stalls? Any exposed nails? Talk not only to the barn managers, but also to any boarder who may be there to get their opinion of the facility. If the barn manager bristles about your talking with another boarder, consider that a bad sign and mark that facility off of your list. Ask questions, ask questions, and ask questions. Will the facility be responsible for providing grain and hay? Inspect the quality of the grain and hay. Will they do the feedings, or will you be responsible for feeding? How many times a day will your horse be fed? Will they feed your supplements or feed additives? Who will have access to your horse? How many people are on staff? What is the experience level of the boarding staff? Does the management share your vision of acceptable/accountable horse care? What is the contact procedure for any emergency that may arise? Will they call your vet or use the vet that comes to the barn? In the event of injury, will they provide the daily care for your horse? Will your horse be stall boarded or pasture boarded? Will your horse be turned out? Does the barn arrange for vet and farrier visits? Is there room for you to park your horse trailer (if applicable)? Does the facility have individual tack storage areas? Are the pastures safe and clutter-free? How many horses will be turned out on pasture together? Are the horses segregated based on gender (i.e., mares, geldings, stallions)?

What are the rules of the barn? Some boarding facilities may be lax on their rules and others may be over- bearing; you need to choose which will better suit your tastes in being told what to do and when to do it.

What kind of facility is it? Does it offer lessons? Does it have indoor and outdoor arenas? Does it have other amenities that you like, or dislike? What type of boarder keeps their horse there? If you are strictly a trail rider and the facility houses mostly show horses, you may not find the atmosphere conducive to garnering friendships with anyone there or you may feel there is no connectivity between you and others.

How will your horse fit into a boarding facility? Is he one that is used to being turned out with several other horses or is he used to being alone or with only one other horse?

If a signed boarding contract is required, read over the contract carefully and then re-read it. All of the rules of the facility should be listed in the contract. Everything that management expects from you, the boarder, should be spelled out in the contract. If no boarding contract is required, it may be best to go elsewhere. Get references from the barn manager. Phone the references to get their candid opinions of the boarding facility, its operation, and its management. Inquiries can also be made from local vets and feed stores of area boarding facilities.

If the above questions can be answered to your satisfaction, then finding the boarding facility right for you and your horse just got easier. If the questions cannot be satisfactorily answered, you need to continue your search or find a good realtor who can sell you a prime piece of farmland where you can put your horse right outside your backdoor.

Happy trails!

Winterizing Your Horse

By Darlene M. Cox

As the winter months begin we need to make sure that our horses are ‘winterized’ and best able to adapt to and be comfortable with whatever nature presents. Special attention should be paid to shelter, nutrition, water, exercise, and hoof care to keep you horse healthy and happy during the winter months.

Shelter

Shelter is the first important requirement on your list to winterize your horse. In the wild, horses would use the commonality of the herd for warmth; generating and sharing body heat while gathered in tight little groups behind a natural windbreak. You will also notice this behavior in domesticated herds; however, not everyone has their own herd, which would make the shared warmth impossible. Therefore, it would be optimal to have an enclosed stall within a dry/warm barn in which to house your horse during bad winter weather. Always keep your eye on the weather forecast so you’ll know if your horse should be stalled or turned out for the day/night.

If your horse is pasture-bound, providing a 3-sided run-in shed will allow him to get out of the elements at his choosing. In some states, it is a requirement that a run-in shelter be provided. You can also utilize a well-fitting waterproof, wind- resistant winter blanket to provide additional warmth to your horse. I would recommend using such a blanket as well if you do not have a structured shelter that your horse can use. Make sure the blanket is ‘water-proof’ and not ‘water- resistant’ as water-resistant blankets will eventually allow water to soak in. If the horse is wet under the blanket, he’ll be just as cold as if he didn’t have a blanket on. It is important for you to check the blanket often for placement, dryness, and cleanliness. A dirty blanket can cause fungal infections. Regular grooming during the winter months is imperative to keeping your horse fungus free. It also provides you with an opportunity to make sure the blanket isn’t rubbing anywhere.

Nutrition

Your horse should have a great body condition as he goes into the winter months. A poor body conditioned horse will not fare well during this time of year, and you will be investing more money trying to keep him healthy. You should provide your horse with quality, clean hay (roughage). While hay preferences vary, always insure the hay is clean and mold-free. Most sources identify the amount of hay to feed your horse is between 1% - 2% of his total body weight. In other words, a 1,000 pound horse should consume a daily ration of 10 to 20 pounds of hay. I will again keep my eye on the weather forecast, and if it seems a severe batch of winter weather is coming, I will increase the amount of hay I feed two or three days in advance to aid my horse in keeping warm.

Graining and supplementation of your horse should continue at the amounts/portions fed prior to winter weather. This is, of course, depending upon exercise and body condition. Always check your horse’s body condition by running your hand over their barrel feeling for their ribs, as well as along their backbone and croup feeling for bony protrusions. If your horse is loosing condition, minimally and systematically increase their grain intake. A general rule of thumb is to increase grain quantities by ¼ measures each week until the body condition begins to improve, and then continue that amount/portion throughout the winter months.

Water

One of the greatest misnomers I have ever heard portrayed is that ‘horses can get all the water they need from eating snow.” While some horses may eat snow, they would have to eat a lot of it to achieve the minimum of 5- 10 gallons a day that is required. Clean, ice-free water should be available to your horse at all times. Since your horse’s diet is primarily hay/roughage, water will aid in its digestion. Some horses will not drink an adequate amount of water during the winter months as cold water is not very palatable to them. Always keep a salt block available during the winter to encourage drinking.

Heat tape applied to your barn faucets will keep your water source from freezing. Heated water buckets and/or water tank heaters are available at most horse/stock suppliers. Using bales of straw as an insulator around a water trough can also aid in keeping water ice free. If you don’t have an electricity source at your barn, you can always heat up water and take it to your horse. While a little more arduous for you, it will assuage your fears that your horse isn’t getting enough water.

Exercise

Throughout the winter months it is important to keep your horse in good shape. Don’t let them become a pasture-potato just because it’s snowy and cold out. Light exercise is the key with 2 or 3 weekly ½ hour sessions recommended. Whether you choose to lounge-line, round pen, or ride your horse make sure your emphasis is on ‘light’; don’t overwork him to where he is sweating profusely, as he will quickly chill. Utilize some type of blanket to cover his croup while riding to keep his muscles from being cold and having spasms from the workout. Always cool him out and make sure he is adequately dried after the exercise session. Fluff up his hair a little to allow air to get in which will then be warmed next to his skin and thereby providing warmth.

Hoof Care

Some may believe that hoof care is not an important issue during the winter as horses are not ridden as often. While hoof growth may slow some during the winter months, it is still of utmost importance that you continue to have your farrier check your horse’s hooves and trim them as necessary. Many abscesses form over the winter months and are caused by the hoof’s impact against frozen ground.

If your horse is shod during the riding season, having their shoes pulled during the winter will give their feet a break allowing the hoof wall to thicken and give the sole a chance to toughen up. If you keep your horse shod during the winter because of riding preferences or perhaps because of a pre- existing hoof condition, it is important that you keep the foot ‘snowball’ free, as snow will accumulate between the sole and the shoe forming a ‘ball’, which will make walking unbalanced and difficult. I have had great success in keeping shod feet free of snow by using petroleum jelly. Simply clean out the hoof and apply the petroleum jelly with a hoof brush. This will need to be repeated often (as long as you have snow cover), but it is very effective in keeping the snowballs from forming.

Since there is an abundance of moisture during this time of year, whether it comes from standing in snow, water, mud, or a mucky stall, your horse will be greatly susceptible to thrush. Continuing your daily practice of cleaning your horse’s feet will reduce the risk of your horse contracting thrush. If your horse is stall bound for a greater number of hours, make sure the stall is kept clean. Woody Pet is a great product on the market today that absorbs moisture in stalls.

Following the above-mentioned points will allow you to ‘winterize’ your horse and keep him happy and healthy while you both await springtime and the awakening of a new riding year.

What To Do Before the Snow Falls

By MaryKay Ruble

As the leaves change color, and a chill wind begins to blow, a few simple steps need to be taken before winter snows fall. While this may not be a complete list, it is intended to be a starting point, and certainly, different areas with varying weather conditions will prepare in manners specific to impending conditions.

1) Move all liquids, sprays and temperature-controlled items into the house, basement or heated lounge or tack room to prevent freezing and rupturing of containers. This will save time and money next spring between clean-up and replacements of bottles and sprayers that have frozen, split and then drained their contents in your barn or tack box.

2) Do a maintenance check of all doors, sliding and hinged, latches, water heater, area heaters, feed storage containers, fence chargers, mechanical systems and fire extinguishers. None of these items are fun to change out when the temperatures have dipped into the single digits and wind chill is measured in the negative.

3) Put up, or line up a steady, reliable supply of good hay. In cold weather, your horse will derive more body heat from hay than grain. Supplying adequate amounts of hay during winter turn-out may keep horses from pawing through snow for forage. In the early spring months, supplying hay during turn out may save your pastures from becoming mud bogs as the horses move around in search of grazing areas. This movement during muddy conditions may bury or destroy any new grass growth.

4) Check tack and blankets for any repairs or cleaning that may need to be done. Repairs to leather may require that the item be shipped out to a professional. Winter may be a time for you to do this; you may not be riding as often, or may be willing to ride bareback for the added warmth and can relinquish your saddle to the postman. Blanket repairs will need to be done in advance of colder weather so that they are on-hand when needed. Keep a roll of duct tape in the barn for quick repairs when you can’t send the blanket out for mending.

5) Check with your vet to see what vaccinations are recommended for the fall or winter months. This may also be the time for an equine dental check-up. Keep up with your worming schedule, supplements and farrier visits. Although hoof growth generally slows during cold weather, and while most shod horses are left barefoot for winter turn-out, regular trims are still ideal.

6) The fall season is also a good time to check fence lines for maintenance, add strands to existing fence, or put up new fence. The ground may be more workable at this time, and you won’t have bugs, heat or humidity to contend with during the hard work.

7) If you own a trailer and tow vehicle, now is also a good time to do any scheduled or necessary maintenance on them.

Horse Flies

By Mary Kay Ruble

Horse flies and deer flies, which fall into the same fly family, are the bane of many horse-people’s existence, with their biting, buzzing and usual annoying dive-bombing tactics. It seems that not only must we worry about ourselves and our horses being bitten, but we also worry about what our horses will do to evade the bite itself, sometimes putting us at risk of being kicked, bumped, trod over or stepped on.

Of the 2000 species of horse flies world-wide, several of those species need a blood meal to develop eggs, but of those, only the females will bite and draw blood from mammals and humans. With their knife-like mouth parts, and painful bites, the flies are static in their feeding methods, as a host animal will make evasive maneuvers once bitten, cutting short the fly’s snack time. The horse fly will infuse an anticoagulant to keep their meal free-flowing, and once it finishes, will fly away, leaving an open, blood-oozing wound for secondary feeders to dine on, and spread diseases thru. Along with the bite and draw of blood, horse flies can spread Equine Infectious Anemia and according to a 1990 issue of The New England Journal of Medicine can also transmit Lyme disease.

The less vicious male fly will dine on plant juices, nectar and other plant liquids, rarely upsetting the lives of our horses, until he searches out a female to play the reproductive game with.

The female will lay her eggs on vegetation that hangs over wetlands, streams, ponds or lakes. Nearly every species of horse fly is aquatic or semi-aquatic and their larvae require a moist area in which to mature and spend the winter. Conveniently, once the eggs hatch, it is a short drop into water for the lucky larvae.

Mature horse flies are attracted to shiny objects, movement, warmth and possibly carbon dioxide, which explain why human swimmers in the glittering water of backyard pools are often bothered by horse flies.

Because eradication of their breeding-ground wetlands is unlikely, and in most areas of the U.S is highly regulated, we will be forced to suffer the cohabitation of the dreaded horse fly during our summer daylight riding hours. If we can limit the amount of shiny bling that we and our horses wear, lower our body temperatures, don’t move and don’t breathe, we should be safe from the flies! Good luck to us all!

House and Stable...Flies

By MaryKay Ruble

The common house fly, which is a non-biting fly, and the stable fly, both found world-wide, not only closely resemble one another, but are also in the same family. In the case of the stable fly, both the males and females bite and suck blood, and although it can spread diseases found in animals, it is not as capable of spreading human diseases. The house fly, despite the fact that it does not bite, is able to readily spread both human and animal diseases, and germs, which can be carried on their bodies, or regurgitated when they feed.

The stable fly lays its eggs in voids in moist hays, in warm, damp, fermenting grass or other yard clippings, manure, grains or other feed and even in clumps of seaweed that has washed ashore! House flies generally choose similar voids in manure or other decaying matter in which to lay their eggs. Thru studies, and simple mathematics, it was found that up to 12 generations of house fly will mature in one year!

Of the two, stable flies are very strong fliers and may fly up to several hundred miles from their breeding site in search of better conditions and feeding. House flies can easily travel up to two miles, in a sporadic manner with seemingly no destination or reason in mind. House flies will even leave ideal conditions to randomly strike out on their own, or in small groups of flies.

Given the distances that stable flies can travel, infestation cannot be controlled by individual barns or facilities. The control of house flies is equally bleak, as any control is simply a temporary fix. Aggressively eliminating the areas in which they feed and breed will offer only slightly more control. Biological control may offer a little more help, but requires nearly precise timing, and widespread use by many surrounding farms. Biological control also requires that some level of the flies’ breeding site be maintained so that the prey wasps will have fly eggs available in which to lay their own eggs, rendering that generation of flies incapacitated.

We may have to live with flies, but we don’t have to love them!