Friday, June 19, 2009
Manners on the Trail: Trail Riding Etiquette
There are myriad ways to enjoy the great outdoors. Along with horse trail riders, hikers, bikers, joggers, 4-wheeler enthusiasts, packers (mules/llama), etc. can all be encountered along the vast trail systems that we frequent. Unlike driving a car, there are no official rules or laws in place for traversing our trails; however, we do have an “etiquette” system that should be employed and communicated to others if they may be unaware that such exists. Adherence to our etiquette system will ensure our enjoyment of the trail riding experience and our safety, as well.
Following are the rules for good trail riding etiquette:
1. All trail users yield to the horse. Horse riders are given the right of way among all other trail users. The reasoning for this is that horses can present a danger to everyone in certain circumstances and are therefore given the leeway to continue their forward movement. Bike riders should move to the side, dismount from their bikes and lay them on the ground. Hikers should move to the side. When approaching hikers or bikers, talk to them to get them to respond to you. This will show your horse that these are humans and not horse-eating monsters. Ask the hikers/bikers to stand on the downhill side of the horses to allow their safe passage. Ask them not to reach out to touch your horse, as this may invoke a spook. Thank them for moving off the trail allowing you to pass. 4-wheeler drivers should pull off of the trail and turn their engines off.
2. Single riders, or the smaller group, should yield to the larger group of riders. Also, if an oncoming group has young children within it, regardless of the size, let their group pass first. Move safely off of the trail, turning your horse’s hind end away from the trail. Make sure there is plenty of room to pass. Don’t try to pass in a small area. You are just asking for trouble. Don’t let your horse “visit” with other horses.
3. Downhill riders should yield to uphill riders. It is difficult for a horse to resume its climb uphill once it has lost momentum. Again, move your horse off of the trail with its hindquarters pointed away from the trail.
4. Always be prepared for the unexpected when passing other horses. Stay on guard and ready to act if something occurs.
5. When riding with a group, always keep at least one or two horse lengths between you and the horse you are following. Incorporating this distance will allow you to see the trail and any hazards that may lie upon it. You will also have time and room to react if something blows up.
6. If your horse is a known kicker, tie a red ribbon in its tail to alert other riders of his propensity to kick. Horses that are kick or are otherwise unruly should be kept at the back of the group. Make sure anyone who may ride upon you from an approaching group knows that your horse is a kicker. Announce it, even though the ribbon is in place. Make sure they keep their distance.
7. If you are riding a stallion, tie a yellow ribbon in his tail and keep him away from any mare that may be in season. If you are riding a mare in season, keep her away from the stallion.
8. Always ride to the ability of the least experienced horse or rider in your group. Do not move at a faster gait than what that person or horse can handle. Do not take any trails that the least experienced horse or rider may be able to traverse safely.
9. Always be vigilant of trail hazards (holes, roots, rocks, etc.) and warn other riders who are coming along behind you.
10. When you reach a watering area, take turns watering your horses. Don’t crowd into the watering source. Also, do not leave the area until every horse has had an opportunity to drink its fill. No horse will stay behind when all of the others have left.
11. When preparing to mount and begin riding, do not walk off until every person is safely in the saddle and ready to start.
12. If someone has to dismount in route, everyone should stop until that person can remount and prepare to get on the way again.
13. If you have a dog that you like to take on the trail with you, get the general consensus of all those with whom you are riding. If one single person is not comfortable with your dog coming along, then Fido needs to stay behind in camp.
14. Remember to keep our trails clean. If you pack it in, pack it out.
15. When coming to a hill, whether going up or down, allow the rider ahead of you to clear enough distance to allow your horse to begin its climb or descent without crowding the horse in front.
16. Be prepared to encounter folks on the trail who do not know or understand trail etiquette. Weigh the measure of discussing it with them, or simply just let it go.
17. Stay safe. No ride is a good ride if every rider does not come back safely.
Happy trails!
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Leading a Horse To Water: Prevention of Dehydration while Trail Riding
By Darlene Cox
One of the most important requirements of your horse during trail riding is keeping him hydrated. Dehydration may lead to your horse to a bout of colic, tying-up (azoturia), or heat stroke. Dehydration severities can range from mild to life threatening, or even death. Maintaining the proper balance of water and electrolytes for your horse is imperative to his health and your peace of mind. There is no fear greater to any horseman than to be miles out on a trail and have your horse in peril of dying.
Hydration needs of your horse while trail riding are different than when he is at home relaxing in his pasture. Traveling and trail riding are stressful and you may find your horse refusing to drink while on the road, on the trail, or in camp. There may be many factors in the equation that keeps your horse from drinking: the water may not taste the same; he horse is too excited with his new surroundings and will not be calm enough to drink; he may be overheated; or he may have an imbalance in electrolytes.
While riding, we should be ever vigilant of our horse's hydration, and there are several ways that you can test to make sure he is hydrated:
- Skin pinch test - Pinch the skin over the point of the shoulder. If your horse if fully hydrated, his skin will pop back immediately. However, the skin will remain tented (pinched up) the more dehydrated a horse becomes.
- Capillary refill test - Press your thumb against your horse's upper gums. Once you remove it, count the seconds it takes for the area to return to the same color (the depressed area will appear white right after you remove your thumb). It is best to have a baseline number in mind taken at a time when you knew your horse to be fully hydrated. The longer it takes for the capillaries to refill, the more dehydrated your horse is.
- Mucous membrane test of inner eye lid and gums - Observe a baseline color of gums and inner eye lid. This can probably range from pink to a pinkish-yellowish color. Gums should be moist. If the color is dark red, then your horse is dehydrated. Again, you are looking for a deviation in color from the baseline.
- Jugular vein refill test - Squeeze off the jugular vein for a moment before allowing it to refill. Count the elapsed time before refill. Again, having a baseline reading is important.
- Gut sounds - If you are proficient with the use of a stethoscope, you can listen to the upper and lower gut sounds to determine hydration. Obtain a baseline reading first. Reduced gut sounds are indicative of dehydration.
There are several steps that we as responsible horse owners can take to insure that our horse is adequately hydrated during trail riding.
- Introduce your horse to electrolytes or other flavorings (Kool-aid, Gatorade, etc.) in his water several days prior to trail riding. This will get your horse used to the taste of the electrolytes and/or flavoring additives, and he will not hesitate to drink them while on the trail ride. Electrolytes will generally stimulate a horse to drink because they are salty. If your horse does not like the taste of the electrolytes or flavorings, bring along a small salt block or add salt to his feed while in camp to encourage drinking.
- If possible, bring water from home and offer to your horse during rest breaks while trailering. Some horses will not drink water from different sources, because it tastes different. However, bringing along the water that he is used to may prompt him to drink. Offer water several times during each stop.
- As soon as you get to camp and off-load your horse, fill up his water bucket and get him settled in before moving off to other things. Keep in mind that your horse will be stressed from the drive, being in different surroundings, and around other horses.
- While on the trail the cardinal rule to remember is to NEVER PASS UP WATER! Each time you need to stop and allow your horse an opportunity to drink. If you are riding in a group of horses, it is important that all riders understand they must remain close at hand to allow every horse an opportunity to drink. If the first riders water their horses and then move on down the trail, those horses left behind will not want to drink for fear of being left behind. Be courteous and thoughtful; always make sure that all horses drink their fill before leaving the watering source.
Some younger horses that are not used to drinking from trail water sources (creeks, ponds, lakes, rivers) may not initially venture to the water because of their uncertainty. Having a been-there-done-that horse in the group go into or to the water first will show the more timid horse that it is okay. This actually mimics horse herd dynamic behavior as often one horse will drink first before the others follow.
Bring along a tube of electrolyte paste in your saddle bags to use in an emergency while on the trail. The tube I always brought along was often time needed either for my own horse or someone else's horse.
Incorporating the above steps will keep your horse happy and well throughout the trail riding season.
Happy trails!
Monday, February 25, 2008
Every Time, Every Ride, Helmets Save Lives
By: Darlene M. Cox
Whenever we saddle up and head out on the trails for a nice relaxing ride, the furthest thing from our mind is that we may end up having to spend time in a hospital emergency room due to a fall from our horse; however, those of us who are seasoned riders know that it is not a matter of "if" I fall from the saddle, but "when". We are subject to possible ejection each and every time we sit in the saddle. There are so many factors that can play into any unexpected dismount: rider error, terrain inconsistencies, unexpected stimuli causing a horse to react; tacking issues/problems, etc. The list could go on and on.
Traumatic brain injury is the most highly attributable cause of horse-related injuries and mortality events. Horseback riders sustain more head injuries than participants in other sporting and recreational events such as football, hockey, and bicycling. Yet, those who participate in the sport of leisure trail riding are less likely to protect themselves when enjoying the avocation of horseback riding.
Throughout the many years that I have actively campaigned for rider safety, I have heard many excuses from riders not wanting to wear helmets. Some of those excuses are: "I trust/know my horse", "My horse is well trained", "My horse is bomb-proof", "I'm a skilled rider", "Cowboys don't wear helmets", "You've got to go sometime", "I don't like helmet hair", "Helmets are too hot/heavy/cumbersome". It is evident that sometimes vanity, machismo, and pride prevent some from providing themselves with the life saving protection from riding accidents that helmets afford.
I was once one of those people who felt that helmet wearing was a sign of weakness; either in my own riding ability or in trust of my horse's training. That was until I personally witnessed someone who sustained and irreparable traumatic brain injury. My friend's accident occurred 20 years ago, and she remains wheelchair bound and cognitively challenged as a result of her brain injury. Her wearing a helmet on that fateful day those many years ago would have prevented such serious injury. It was a sobering moment for me, and from that point forward I have worn a helmet each and every time I have mounted a horse.
Many states within the United States, as well as other countries have laws and/or governing regulations that require children wear helmets when riding. Mandates within many public and private riding entities require helmets be worn by riders. While I would not be an opponent of a government implied law requiring all equestrians to wear a helmet, I would first like to see an increase in the number of riders who personally want to provide protection from head injuries for themselves.
Today's helmets are light weight and comfortable. There are several styles and types from which to choose, not to mention a myriad of colors. Riding helmets should bear the "ASTM" or "SEI" seal, which indicates they have been tested for protection and durability. Finding a helmet that you can comfortably ride in is quite possible if not ascertained.
I have read somewhere that it only takes 21 days of repetitious action to transform an action into habit. I would challenge each of you who currently do not wear a helmet when riding to begin developing this habit. Every time, every ride; the life you save will be your own.
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Conditioning Your Horse for Trail Riding
By Darlene M. Cox
Trail riding is fast becoming a great American past-time and recreation. Many people who have always possessed a love for horses and nature have combined these two wonderful elements into beautiful camping and trail riding weekends or vacations. Trail riding is an event that allows whole family participation.
With time being a limited commodity in our lives, we may find ourselves loading up the family and horses and heading out for a lovely weekend or more of riding. Anyone who has been in the saddle for hours can attest that it can definitely take its toll on your body when you aren’t used to straddling a horse for hours on end. Keep in mind that as hard as it most assuredly may be on you to adjust yourself to these occasional jaunts in the saddle, it is even harder on your horse if he has not been properly conditioned for trail riding.
You cannot take a ‘pasture potato’ horse that is used to leisurely grazing and lazing away his days at home communing with his pasture mates and insert him into a high performance position requiring hours under saddle, whereby he has to navigate over rocks and deadfall trees while climbing or descending steep hillsides and expect him to be at “peak performance” or condition for such riding. Doing so will put your horse in harm’s way of injury or certain medical conditions as colic or tying up. Equivocate the stress your unconditioned horse would endure on such a ride as described above as what you would suffer if you entered a mini-marathon unprepared and unconditioned. You wouldn’t start your season off with the mini, rather you would begin walking/running in smaller, incremental distances.
When conditioning my horse for an upcoming ride I will begin riding them three days a week for at least a half hour each day. This time will be increased to one hour each day the next week an hour and a half the third week and leveling off at to two hours the fourth week. A general rule of thumb that I have used is that by the end of the conditioning period, a daily ride of about half the distance of an average day on the trail is sufficient. In other words, if my average ride on the trail is four hours in the saddle, the conditioning period should be composed of two hours. Each session is begun lightly on the lounge line and then progressing under saddle at a walk, then with sustained trotting first at :05, :10, :15, and :20 intervals. After each interval of trotting I will slow to a walk to allow my horse’s heartbeat to slowly come down to normal. To adequately work all muscle groups, I will alternate the lead the horse is on. I rarely canter my horse during these conditioning workouts, as I believe his cardiovascular workout is best heightened at the trot. Each session is ended at a walk with my horse’s heart rate close to a resting normal.
I also utilize conditioning over ground obstacles that will require my horse to pick up his feet to step over them. I will place these obstacles at various places, to better simulate what my horse may encounter on the trail. I have found the implementation of this particular type of conditioning very helpful as it further builds my horse’s endurance ability. You will most likely notice that your horse is fatigued when he begins to stumble when stepping over trail obstacles. A fatigued horse is one more likely to suffer a fall or injury when stepping over this obstacle. It is easy to understand why this is true, again by using ourselves as an example. How would we perform clearing obstacles after we have worked beyond our conditioning level? And once we stumble, aren’t we too tired to avoid the spill that is destined to happen?
Equally important to the amount of exercise conditioning that your horse receives prior to a trail riding trip is an appropriate feeding ration. Horses that are overweight going into their conditioning period should have their grain intake reduced and, possibly, their conditioning regimen increased. For horses that may be thin going into the conditioning period, the grain amount should be increased, with the conditioning time remaining consistent. Exercise coupled with increased grain will bring a thin horse into an acceptable condition.
Incorporating the above conditioning sequence or modifying it to meet the needs for the type of riding you do with your horse will ensure that you both will be better able to tackle the obstacles encountered along the miles of trail you will traverse and to avoid any unnecessary injuries that may be sustained if you don’t prepare for them. Ride safe, ride sound.
Happy trails!
Have Horse, Will Travel
By Darlene M. Cox
The 2006 riding season has arrived, and I am sure many of us are chomping at the bit to load our horses in the trailer and hit the road destined for our favorite riding spots. It is important that you keep trailer and hauling safety in mind each time you hitch up. Following are some guidelines that will assure your trailer is safe to use throughout the season. Also thrown in are some helpful hints in making your horse as comfortable as possible while hauling.
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Pre-season maintenance.
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Well before the riding season begins inspect your trailer and have appropriate maintenance performed (Utilize the service of a reputable trailer service if you are unsure how to perform these tasks.)
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Tires and Wheels
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Inspect and re-pack all wheel bearings
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Inspect all tires, including the spare, for wear, dry rot, and air pressure. Rotate tires. Replace is well-worn.
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Electrical wiring and electrical braking system
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Inspect electrical wiring and electrical braking system.
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Make sure all of your turn signals, brake lights, and marker lights are in working order.
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Ensure that electrical braking system engages correctly and doesn’t lock up or delay to respond. Make adjustments or replace electric brake box as needed.
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Brake hardware.
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Inspect braking hardware for wear and tear. Replace as needed.
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Inspect trailer flooring.
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Make sure wooden flooring is solid and strong with no rotting or loose boards.
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Inspect welds on steel flooring to ensure they are holding well and not rusting out.
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Replace any worn rubber mats.
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Gooseneck or bumper-pull Jacks
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Grease the jack on your gooseneck or bumper pull tongue and ensure that it is working properly.
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Check the trailer for leaks around the seams. Caulk any you may find.
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Inspect trailer ties and ensure that the quick release mechanisms are operational. If they are rusted closed, you will either want to replace them or spray them with lubricant so they can be easily released.
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Check for wasp/yellow jacket nests that may have been built while the trailer was not used. I check for these each and every time I get ready for a trip. It doesn’t take any time for these opportunistic insects to move in and defend their nest.
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Taking your trailer for a pre-season test drive is a good way to check for troublesome problems and get you reacquainted with pulling a trailer.
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Pre-trip inspection for each time you haul. I will check lights, tires, jack locks, doors, etc. each time I stop (i.e., fuel stops, bathroom breaks, lunch breaks, etc.)
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Lights
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Check all signal, brake, and marker lights.
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Brakes
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After you have loaded up and are pulling away, check your brakes to ensure you have the setting on the tension box adjusted for the load you are pulling. Different tension settings are required for varying weight differentials. I adjust my setting as I pull out the long driveway from the barn and before I hit the highway.
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Jack locks
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Make sure the jack is locked securely onto the bumper or ball hitch.
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Box gate
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Inspect the box gate after you have loaded your horse to make sure it is securely closed and locked. If you have a slide gait as well, make sure it is securely fastened.
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Living Quarters or Tack Compartment Doors
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Make sure these doors are securely fastened
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Tires
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Inspect air pressure on your tires and check for any visible blemish or bulge.
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After-trip maintenance
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Clean out horse box of any manure, urine, shavings, hay, etc. either by sweeping or hosing. If you hose it out, remove your mats so the floor will completely dry.
Inspect tires for any damage or wear issues. It’s always easier to replace/repair tires after one trip and before another than it is to realize such is required on the day you plan on hauling.
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Truck maintenance
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Just as important as trailer maintenance, your hauling vehicle should also be appropriately serviced for pulling. Oil changes (engine and rear differential), transmission fluid flushes, fuel system flushes, etc. should be routinely performed.
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Tires and brakes should be inspected and serviced as required.
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Ball plates and bumper hitches should be inspected for stability and safety.
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Safe transport of your horse.
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Securely fasten your horse with quick-release trailer ties.
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Always keep a pocket knife handy in the event of an emergency, regardless of the fact that you have the quick-release ties.
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Your horse’s head position should be low enough where he cannot entangle the trailer tie on his feet/legs. Never high-tie your horse in a trailer. He needs to be able to get his head low to clear his lungs. If you’ve ever noticed horses with runny noses and a cough after hauling, it’s because their heads were tied too high.
Most horses ride well if they have hay to munch on during the trip. It soothes them and gives them something to do. Make sure that the hay bag is safely secured at a height where the horse cannot get his feet tangled in it. Keep in mind that an empty hay bag lengthens. Also, ensure that your horse can comfortably reach the hay bag, but can also move his head away from it if he chooses. This will prevent him from breathing chaff (dirt, dust, and hay) into his lungs. Utilizing a fly mask will also keep debris out of his eyes. -
If you are hauling only one horse in a straight load trailer, place him on the left hand side of the trailer. This will ensure hauling safety as the trailer will be balanced. Right-side loading will make the trailer off balance and you will run the risk of flipping your trailer.
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Ventilation. There should be plenty of air movement in the trailer for your horse. Remember, he’s riding in a metal box. If there is no air movement, the box will heat up quickly. The heat is compounded if you are hauling several horses, as they will generate a lot of body heat due to the fact that their muscles are working to brace themselves during the ride.
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Drive slowly, smoothly, and carefully. It takes more time to stop a fully loaded trailer than it does to stop your vehicle when not towing. Feather the brakes when you stop, to avoid throwing your horse forward. Sudden lane changes and erratic driving will ad undue stress on your horse.
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Have a lead rope available for each horse in the event you have to unload them in an emergency.
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Never lock the doors to the horse box in the event an emergency unloading is required.
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If you stop somewhere during your transit (for lunch, bathroom break, etc.), park in the shade. Offer your horse water if you are hauling for several hours.
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Remember that hauling is stressful to horses. If you haul for several hours (4 or more), I would recommend not riding your horse for that day. He should be allowed to relax and de-stress. You could avoid potentially dangerous health conditions (colic, tying-up) by allowing him this time of rest.
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Implementing the above maintenance and hauling recommendations will assist your safe arrival at your riding destination or your return home.
Happy trails!
Friday, July 27, 2007
Planning for the Riding Season
It may be blustery and cold outside with ice rings sitting atop water buckets, but it’s none too early to begin the planning phase for your 2006 riding season. Do you plan on staying with the ‘tried and true’ trails that you have come to know and love, or is this the year you will venture out and visit other campgrounds and trails you have heard about? If you’re like me, you plan to spend as many possible hours in the saddle that you can muster. Over the years I have found it helpful to research and plan ahead for the upcoming riding season’s destinations, particularly when a visit to a new venue is involved.
Your first step in researching new camping/riding venues is easy, and the vehicle you need is right under your fingertips – your computer. One of the most informative websites that I’ve run across is http://www.horseandmuletrails.com . This website contains information about horse campgrounds, trails, and overnight hosts throughout the United States. You can access the websites of individual campgrounds and read testimonials from those who have visited and ridden them. Contact information is available if you would wish to speak with camp/trail operators. Whenever I plan to visit a new horse camp, I always call and speak with someone at the business just so I can personally get a feel to how the camp is operated and to find out information about the trails. Important questions I ask are: What kind of testing confirmation do you require (i.e., Coggins, health certification, etc?) What are your camping fees? Are there trail use fees? How many campsites do you have? What are your reservation requirements? Do you have stalls, hitching rails, or picket lines for the horses? Do you allow dogs? Do you have electric and/or primitive sites? Is there potable water on site or nearby? Do you have shower facilities? Will my horse be on or near my site? Do you provide stall bedding or wheelbarrows, rakes, and shovels for manure removal? Are your stalls in good repair? Do you have an on-site farrier? Is there an on-call vet available? What is the level of difficulty of your trails? What kind of terrain encompasses them? How many trail miles are available from how many trailheads? Are the trailheads accessible from your camp? Are the trails well-marked? Do you have a printed trail-map available? What types of other trail users may be on the trails (hikers, bikers, four-wheelers, etc.) Are there any particular geographical dangers along your trails (i.e., unmarked cave openings, quicksand, wild animals, etc?)
I will also speak with someone who has actually visited and ridden the trails I’m interested in, just to get a feel for what they experienced during their time there. I try to balance out the positive and negative statements of their recounting with how they might fit what I like when I camp and ride. For instance, if they relay that the trails are more rugged than what I’d like to ride, I’ll mark this particular place off of my list. If they relay that the campsites are comfortable for man and horse alike with spacious, flat, shaded areas, I’ll consider that a positive attraction.
Part of the important research in planning a trip to a new riding venue, particularly for those located out of state, is to find out what pre-requisites that particular state may have for transporting out-of-state equines. By utilizing the following website, http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/sregs/ , you can determine what is required for each state you are traveling through or visiting in. Keep in mind that if you plan to take the gamble and not have the proper testing certifications/documentations, you run the risk of not being allowed entry into that state (whereby you are told to turn around and leave); being fined for not having the appropriate documentation; having the state veterinarian summoned to test your horse(s) on site (very expensive and time consuming); or having your horse(s) quarantined (again, very expensive and time consuming). In my opinion, it is better to play it safe and have all required health documents in order prior to the trip. Speak with your veterinarian about your planned trip and he/she can conduct the required tests and provide you with the necessary documentation. They will also be able to send the documentation in advance to those states that require it.
If you are planning an out-of-state trip, it is very important that you research and have available veterinarian contact information for the areas through which you will be traveling or visiting. Again, I utilize my computer for this and will print out the information that I find and keep it in my truck for easy emergency access. My general rule of thumb is to locate a horse veterinarian within 50 mile vectors. I know this may seem like a daunting task; however, I feel it is better to have this information available at hand than to be trying to locate one in an emergency.
Equally important, you should also research and locate ‘people’ hospitals using the same criteria and action. I have had two experiences where someone within my riding group needed to find a local hospital. It was a terrible and scary ordeal the first time because none of us knew where the hospital was located. The second time we were better prepared, and we were able to get our injured friend to the hospital quickly.
If your trip is going to be one that encompasses hundreds of miles of travel, it is imperative that you find locations that will allow you to overnight your horse(s) to give them a break in travel. Again, you can utilize http://www.horseandmuletrails.com to locate people/businesses that can accommodate you in the areas you are. I do recommend that you phone them to personally get a feel for them and their operations.
Also, talk to your vet about his/her recommendations for transporting your horse(s) over many miles. As a general rule, whenever I transport my horse over distances greater than 200 miles, I will taper off the amount of grain I feed to zero intake two days prior and one day following travel. I will also have my vet come out and ‘oil’ my horse one day prior to the trip. These precautions help guard against travel-induced colic. Contact your vet to see what is recommended for your trip.
I will also research driving routes to my chosen destination by utilizing one or more of the many online map sites like http://www.mapquest.com , http://www.yahoo.com , or http://www.randmcnally.com ) If you are a member of AAA or some other travel organization, you can have them develop a couple of different travel plans for you. I do this just in case there are unexpected travel delays due to accidents or road construction (I’m always thinking about limiting the amount of time my horse is in the trailer). Keep these maps in the glove box as well for easy access when needed.
As you can see, a lot of thought and process goes into finding and making arrangements to visit a new horsecamp. Following the above suggestions will assist you in making the best decision and being better prepared for the trip.
Happy trails!