Congratulations! It’s a . . .Preparing for a Foal's Arrival

By Darlene M. Cox

I can think of no other time, other than when I was having my own child, when I was as anxious for the new baby’s arrival as I was my mare’s foal. This was the first time I had a pregnant mare, and while I knew some things, I was ignorant of others. I watched for all of the signs and stalled her at the appropriate time. Of course, I didn’t want to miss a thing so I set up a cot along with my sleeping bag in the spacious stall and camped out for 4 long, cold nights of waiting. After that 4^th night the bundle of joy arrived and I was sick with the worse bout of bronchitis I’ve ever had.

What did I learn from this very first experience, you might ask? First and foremost was that I probably slowed up the little guy’s arrival by making my presence so annoyingly known. I’m sure my mare didn’t appreciate me being so obtrusive.

Mares like to be undisturbed and have their privacy during birth that is why the majority of mares will give birth during the nighttime hours. One thing I have noticed throughout many mare deliveries is that a mare tends to foal within a 2 hour window each time she gives birth. Now, this is an unscientific theory I have developed throughout many years; however, it has held true with one exception when the mare gave birth in the middle of the afternoon. She probably chose this time due to high traffic through the barn during the night time hours.

I have since become better educated on how to prepare and assist with the arrival of the sweetest of God’s creatures, and I would like to pass some of what I’ve learned on to you.

Mark your calendar for the probable time of arrival. There is a great web-based gestational calculator on the following website: http://www.gaitedhorses.net/gestationalcalc.shtml. Input the estimated date of conception and it will calculate the due date based on a 343 day gestational period.

Decide where you want your mare to give birth. Preferentially, pasture birthing is your best choice providing your mare will have the pasture to herself, away from other curious horses, and you can easily have a view of the pasture. The environment in the pasture is also cleaner than that of a stall, and you don’t have to be concerned with the mare birthing next to a wall. I believe mares are actually more comfortable when giving birth outside.

If you do not have accessible pasture or perhaps weather conditions may not warrant an outside birth, stall birthing is appropriate. A foaling stall should be set up for the birth. Do not use a regular box stall. The minimum size of a foaling stall should be around 14’x14’. My personal preference is the larger the better. You should also keep the stall bedded deep with clean straw. DO NOT use wood shavings as they will stick to the wet foal and can cause possible infections to the umbilical area or be inhaled into his lungs.

If you plan to have your mare deliver in a stall, don’t keep her stalled for a really long period of time waiting for her to deliver. She needs to be out on pasture for the exercise; giving birth isn’t easy. Bring her in at night when it’s more likely that she may foal. Know the signs of impending birth and then stall her when you think she may be within 4 days of delivery.

Know the signs of impending delivery. (Not every mare will show all of these signs, but all will show at least one or two.)

· About two weeks to a month before birth the mare’s udder will begin to fill. You will also notice the prominence of the ‘milk vein’ running underneath her belly.

· The muscles along the mares croup and above her vulva will relax and the tail head will look like its raised up. On palpation of the tailhead area you will feel a ‘spongeyness’ of the muscles. This will occur about a week before birth.

· Within a few days to a week, the teats will become engorged with milk. The udder will now be full and extended.

· ‘Waxing’ on the tips of the teats will occur 2-3 days before foaling. This is colostrum leaking from the udder and waxing on the teats. Some mares may even leak milk during this process. When you see this occurring, you know the time is very near.

Know the three stages of labor and delivery because if a problem arises you will be able to act more quickly in calling the vet, whose number should be kept close by. Also keep a close eye on your watch to time the stages. If it looks like a stage is going on for too long you will know to call the vet. The first question the vet will ask is ‘how long has she been in this stage?”

· Stage 1 – Contractions will begin and last for 1 – 2 hours. The contractions move the foal into the birth canal. Stage one ends and stage two begins when the foal sac appears and breaks spilling the amniotic fluid.

· Stage 2 – This is the actual birth of the foal and should happen very quickly, generally less than 30 minutes. If it takes more than 30 minutes, call your vet because there could be a problem.

It is quite common for mares to move around a lot during this stage. She may lie down and roll and then stand back up only to lie down again. She isn’t doing this because she is in distress but rather to assist in positioning the foal for birth. Some mares actually give birth while standing. If birthing in a stall, watch your mare to make sure she doesn’t lie down with her hindquarters against the wall. If she does this, encourage her to move away from the wall.

Positioning of the foal:

In a normal birth, the foal will be positioned to be delivered front feet first. One foot a little in front of the second, hooves down with his head resting between them (similar to what a diver looks like). This position allows the shoulders to pass through the birth canal at an angle. Once the shoulders are clear, the rest of the foal slips out quickly, although it is possible for the foal’s hips to become lodged in the birth canal.

If the foal presents in any other fashion (hind feet first, hoof up, head first, one foot only, butt first, etc.) call your vet immediately!

Once the foal is safely on the ground allow him to break free of the fetal sac. Make sure he is breathing on his own. If he isn’t, make sure his nose and mouth are clear. Stick your fingers in his nostrils or ears to stimulate him into breathing.

The umbilical cord may have broken by this point or it will be broken when the mare stands, which she will more than likely do very soon after birth. If the umbilical cord has not broken DO NOT cut it as this will cause the foal to hemorrhage from the umbilical stump. Twist the umbilical cord about an inch away from the umbilicus of the foal. The cord will be it’s thinnest at this point. The twisting will cause the blood vessels in the umbilical cord to close off. Treat the umbilical stump with antiseptic after it breaks (repeat the treatment for 5 days). This will prevent bacterial infection.

Allow the mare to attend to her foal at this point. She will want to lick it, which encourages blood circulation in the new born foal. She is also bonding with her baby at this moment, and he to her.

The foal should be trying to stand within 30 minutes of birth and should be standing and within 2 hours. If he’s not standing within 2.5 hours, call the vet.

The foal should have his first bowel movement of ‘meconium’ within 12 hours of delivery. If he hasn’t, you may need to administer an enema.

Make sure the mare isn’t aggressive to the foal, as some mares may be, especially some maiden mares. If she is aggressive, remove the foal and reintroduce him with the mare in hand and restrained. Some maiden mare’s udders are very sore/sensitive and she won’t be used to having them touched. She may react when the foal tries to nurse. You may need to ‘milk’ the mare to allow the foal to nurse the first time. The first 24-hours of nursing are very important as this is when the foal receives the antibody-rich colostrum.

· Stage 3 – In this last stage, the placenta or ‘afterbirth’ will be delivered.
The mare will begin to have contractions again as the placenta is moved into the birth canal. These contractions won’t be as hard as the ones she had when birthing the foal and she may not exhibit much discomfort during the process.

Once the placenta has been delivered, inspect to make sure it is all there. ‘Unfold’ it from its pile to reveal its “Y” shape. There should only be one hole in it through which the foal passed. If you suspect part of the placenta has been retained, call your vet.

Un

The Grass is Always Greener Outside the Stall Door

By Darlene M. Cox

The snow has all but gone as spring has arrived with its seasonal showing of budding trees, blooming flowers, and lush pasture grasses. Your horses are eager to leave their stalls and dine on the vegetative growth and you are anxious to cut down your mounting feed bill. However, if you don’t want to trade that feed bill for possible major veterinarian expenses, be prudent about the amount of time you allow your horses to graze on the nutrient and mineral rich springtime foliage. Opening their stall doors and allowing them unlimited access to springtime pastures will increase possible occurrences of colic, laminitis, and founder. Stalled horses will act as hoofed vacuum cleaners if they are left out on spring pasture. They will overeat themselves into oblivion; stuffing themselves with the rich, young grass and will experience weight gain and diarrhea.

Horses that are kept on pasture year round will adjust to the new grasses as they grow; however, if your horses have been kept stalled or penned with limited pasture access and fed a predominately hay/grain ration throughout the winter, it is recommended that you gradually introduce their pasture exposure.

An important thing to remember is that anytime you change the metabolic intake in your horse’s diet you run the chance of upsetting the delicate balance of his health. Moderation is always the key.

Before you re-introduce your horses to pasture, make sure your pasture is ready. I always wait for the grass length to be a good 4 inches or so. Keep in mind that when a horse grazes, they will crop the grass really short to the ground. You don’t want to strip your pasture of grass even before the growing season gets started.

I have utilized the following two-week introductory spring pasture grazing plan for my horses:

• Days 1 and 2 – Allow 30 minutes of grazing time.
• Days 3 and 4 – Allow 45 minutes of grazing time.
• Days 5, 6, and 7 – Allow 60 minutes of grazing time.
• Days 8 and 9 – Allow 1:15 of grazing time.
• Days 11 and 12 – Allow 1:30 grazing time.
• Days 13 and 14 – Allow 2 hours of grazing time.
• Day 15 and beyond – Allow normal unlimited access to pasture.

If you have a horse that is prone to colic or founder/laminitis, you may want to shorten these grazing increments. If you notice onset of diarrhea in your horse, revert back to the previous day’s grazing plan. For overly eager horses that are most likely to go out to pasture and mow down any green plant standing, I would recommend feeding them a good portion of hay prior to turning him out. This will satiate some of his hunger and slow down his grazing.

In the many years I have implemented the above plan, I have never had to deal with any spring pasture-related illness or concern. If you wish to implement the above or a similar pasture introduction plan, I encourage you to speak with your vet.

Happy Trails!

Planning for the Riding Season

By Darlene M. Cox

It may be blustery and cold outside with ice rings sitting atop water buckets, but it’s none too early to begin the planning phase for your 2006 riding season. Do you plan on staying with the ‘tried and true’ trails that you have come to know and love, or is this the year you will venture out and visit other campgrounds and trails you have heard about? If you’re like me, you plan to spend as many possible hours in the saddle that you can muster. Over the years I have found it helpful to research and plan ahead for the upcoming riding season’s destinations, particularly when a visit to a new venue is involved.

Your first step in researching new camping/riding venues is easy, and the vehicle you need is right under your fingertips – your computer. One of the most informative websites that I’ve run across is http://www.horseandmuletrails.com . This website contains information about horse campgrounds, trails, and overnight hosts throughout the United States. You can access the websites of individual campgrounds and read testimonials from those who have visited and ridden them. Contact information is available if you would wish to speak with camp/trail operators. Whenever I plan to visit a new horse camp, I always call and speak with someone at the business just so I can personally get a feel to how the camp is operated and to find out information about the trails. Important questions I ask are: What kind of testing confirmation do you require (i.e., Coggins, health certification, etc?) What are your camping fees? Are there trail use fees? How many campsites do you have? What are your reservation requirements? Do you have stalls, hitching rails, or picket lines for the horses? Do you allow dogs? Do you have electric and/or primitive sites? Is there potable water on site or nearby? Do you have shower facilities? Will my horse be on or near my site? Do you provide stall bedding or wheelbarrows, rakes, and shovels for manure removal? Are your stalls in good repair? Do you have an on-site farrier? Is there an on-call vet available? What is the level of difficulty of your trails? What kind of terrain encompasses them? How many trail miles are available from how many trailheads? Are the trailheads accessible from your camp? Are the trails well-marked? Do you have a printed trail-map available? What types of other trail users may be on the trails (hikers, bikers, four-wheelers, etc.) Are there any particular geographical dangers along your trails (i.e., unmarked cave openings, quicksand, wild animals, etc?)

I will also speak with someone who has actually visited and ridden the trails I’m interested in, just to get a feel for what they experienced during their time there. I try to balance out the positive and negative statements of their recounting with how they might fit what I like when I camp and ride. For instance, if they relay that the trails are more rugged than what I’d like to ride, I’ll mark this particular place off of my list. If they relay that the campsites are comfortable for man and horse alike with spacious, flat, shaded areas, I’ll consider that a positive attraction.

Part of the important research in planning a trip to a new riding venue, particularly for those located out of state, is to find out what pre-requisites that particular state may have for transporting out-of-state equines. By utilizing the following website, http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/sregs/ , you can determine what is required for each state you are traveling through or visiting in. Keep in mind that if you plan to take the gamble and not have the proper testing certifications/documentations, you run the risk of not being allowed entry into that state (whereby you are told to turn around and leave); being fined for not having the appropriate documentation; having the state veterinarian summoned to test your horse(s) on site (very expensive and time consuming); or having your horse(s) quarantined (again, very expensive and time consuming). In my opinion, it is better to play it safe and have all required health documents in order prior to the trip. Speak with your veterinarian about your planned trip and he/she can conduct the required tests and provide you with the necessary documentation. They will also be able to send the documentation in advance to those states that require it.

If you are planning an out-of-state trip, it is very important that you research and have available veterinarian contact information for the areas through which you will be traveling or visiting. Again, I utilize my computer for this and will print out the information that I find and keep it in my truck for easy emergency access. My general rule of thumb is to locate a horse veterinarian within 50 mile vectors. I know this may seem like a daunting task; however, I feel it is better to have this information available at hand than to be trying to locate one in an emergency.

Equally important, you should also research and locate ‘people’ hospitals using the same criteria and action. I have had two experiences where someone within my riding group needed to find a local hospital. It was a terrible and scary ordeal the first time because none of us knew where the hospital was located. The second time we were better prepared, and we were able to get our injured friend to the hospital quickly.

If your trip is going to be one that encompasses hundreds of miles of travel, it is imperative that you find locations that will allow you to overnight your horse(s) to give them a break in travel. Again, you can utilize http://www.horseandmuletrails.com to locate people/businesses that can accommodate you in the areas you are. I do recommend that you phone them to personally get a feel for them and their operations.

Also, talk to your vet about his/her recommendations for transporting your horse(s) over many miles. As a general rule, whenever I transport my horse over distances greater than 200 miles, I will taper off the amount of grain I feed to zero intake two days prior and one day following travel. I will also have my vet come out and ‘oil’ my horse one day prior to the trip. These precautions help guard against travel-induced colic. Contact your vet to see what is recommended for your trip.

I will also research driving routes to my chosen destination by utilizing one or more of the many online map sites like http://www.mapquest.com , http://www.yahoo.com , or http://www.randmcnally.com ) If you are a member of AAA or some other travel organization, you can have them develop a couple of different travel plans for you. I do this just in case there are unexpected travel delays due to accidents or road construction (I’m always thinking about limiting the amount of time my horse is in the trailer). Keep these maps in the glove box as well for easy access when needed.

As you can see, a lot of thought and process goes into finding and making arrangements to visit a new horsecamp. Following the above suggestions will assist you in making the best decision and being better prepared for the trip.

Happy trails!

Don't 'Horse Around' with Your Horse

By Darlene M. Cox

All of us who are avid horse lovers and riders can identify with how good it feels to be in the company of our beloved equine friends, whether it is from sitting atop our trusty mount enjoying the beauty of nature’s best or gently stroking a soft face and muzzle as it hangs over a stall door. There is a connectivity of soul and spirit that most horse people understand.

Sometimes when we are in our comfort zone with our horse we may become complacent about safety issues. Safety should always come first with every aspect of horse handling or care. Thousands of horse-related injuries are sustained each year, many of which could have easily been avoided if certain safety rules were followed.

The following are some basic “Do’s and Don’ts” that I try to follow whenever I am in the company of my horse:

DON’TS	DO’S
Ground Handling
Do not hand feed treats to your horse.	Always place treats in a feeding bin or on the ground.
Never walk up quickly or quietly behind your horse.	It is best to approach your horse’s shoulder from an angle; however, if you must approach from the rear, move at an angle toward your horse’s hip and speak to him before you reach out to touch. Look for him to respond to your voice with a flick of his ear or moving his head to look at you.
Don’t ignore aggressive ‘warning signals’ your horse may be giving you.	Pay attention to the body language of your horse. Is he distributing aggressive signs of ear pinning, teeth baring, or wheeling to kick?
Never lead your horse through the middle of a pasture-bound herd.	Always be mindful of the other horses in the pasture, particularly the alpha horse or those who have higher status in the pecking order. Skirt a path around the herd, and if you are approached, ‘shoo’ them off.
When leading your horse do not walk in front of him.	Lead your horse with your body placed a little in front and off the side of his shoulder, walking in a parallel path.
Don’t place particular parts of your body in vulnerable positions when haltering or standing near your horse’s head.	Stand to the side of your horse; positioning yourself in front of his shoulder and no further than the throatlatch. When standing beside or in front of your horse’s head always place your arm in front of your chest. Better to sustain a bite on the arm than soft tissue.
If you have your horse in hand when the farrier visits, never stand on the opposite side from which he is working.	Always stand on the same side as the farrier because if something occurs in the trimming/shoeing process to spook your horse, he is going to move ‘away’ from the farrier.
Don’t tie your horse to a flimsy object and NEVER knot the lead rope.	Always tie your horse to a secure object (post, hitching rail, tree, etc.) Learn to tie using the “quick release” knot. Tie at eye level with rope length of about 2”.
When your horse is tied, never move around him in the front. Moving in front would put you in harms way in the event of an emergency.	Always move around a tied horse from the rear, keeping your body close to his and touching him with your hand as you move around.
Don’t position yourself without an escape route in the event your horse may react or panic to any given situation.	Always make sure you can get clear of your horse during a panic or reactive moment.
Don’t ignore what is happening around the general area.	Always be mindful of what is going on. Pay attention.
Unless you have a death wish, don’t walk into a pasture with multiple buckets of feed at dinner time.	Position feed buckets along the fence line, whether attached to the fence or on the ground. Feed the horses in pecking order status – highest to lowest.
Riding
Don’t ride your horse without wearing a helmet. Statistically speaking, more fatalities in horse-related accidents are incurred by those who do not wear helmets.	Helmets save lives! Do wear an ASTM-approved riding helmet.
Don’t ride if your mind’s not ‘on it’.	Be mentally and physically able to ride. Always be prepared for your horse to react to an unknown situation.
Do not drink alcohol when riding.	Save the cold ones to enjoy around the campfire.
Do not ride alone.	Always have a riding buddy. If this isn’t possible, communicate with someone where you will be riding, when you left, and what time to expect you back.
Do not ride your horse while wearing tennis shoes, sandals, or in bare feet.	Always ride while wearing a shoe or boot with a heel and a smooth sole that will allow it to slide easily out of the stirrup in the event of an emergency.
Do not wear clothing that is loosely fitted and flapping around.	Make sure shirts are tucked into pants to prevent them from catching onto the saddle horn during an emergency situation.
Don’t mount your horse without checking tack placement.	Always check tack placement before mounting. Bridle – make sure bit is placed well in the mouth and that the reins are not twisted or caught on something. Saddle – make sure saddle is properly positioned and that latigo is sufficiently snug /secure and rear strap is fastened appropriately. Stirrups – Ensure they are in proper position.
Do not mount your horse while he is tied to a hitching rail.	Untie your horse before mounting. Sometimes a horse will react badly when they are mounted while tied. We are the most unbalanced during mounting and dismounting and can quickly be injured in such instances.
When riding within a group, do not allow your horse to invade another horse’s space.	Always be mindful of the distance between you and the rider in front. Keep at least a one-horse length distance between you. Similar distance applies when the riding group takes a break. Always make sure there is an adequate distance between two horses. Be mindful of horse body language in these situations and react accordingly.
Don’t ride on trails that are too challenging for or beyond the conditioning of you and your horse. If you’re feint of heart and your horse is one step removed from a pasture potato, then “Man From Snowy River” trails aren’t for you.	Always have an understanding of the types of trails you and your horse can comfortably and physically handle. If you’re riding in a group, communicate this with the trail boss so you won’t find yourself where you don’t want to be.
When road riding, do not ride in the middle of the road.	Always ride single-file on the left side of the road and keep an eye out behind you for approaching traffic.

While the list of these Do’s and Don’ts could go on endlessly, the general rule of thumb is to ride with safety in mind. Implementing the above safety points will ensure that the experiences with your horse will be accident free.

Happy trails!

Winterizing Your Horse

By Darlene M. Cox

As the winter months begin we need to make sure that our horses are ‘winterized’ and best able to adapt to and be comfortable with whatever nature presents. Special attention should be paid to shelter, nutrition, water, exercise, and hoof care to keep you horse healthy and happy during the winter months.

Shelter

Shelter is the first important requirement on your list to winterize your horse. In the wild, horses would use the commonality of the herd for warmth; generating and sharing body heat while gathered in tight little groups behind a natural windbreak. You will also notice this behavior in domesticated herds; however, not everyone has their own herd, which would make the shared warmth impossible. Therefore, it would be optimal to have an enclosed stall within a dry/warm barn in which to house your horse during bad winter weather. Always keep your eye on the weather forecast so you’ll know if your horse should be stalled or turned out for the day/night.

If your horse is pasture-bound, providing a 3-sided run-in shed will allow him to get out of the elements at his choosing. In some states, it is a requirement that a run-in shelter be provided. You can also utilize a well-fitting waterproof, wind- resistant winter blanket to provide additional warmth to your horse. I would recommend using such a blanket as well if you do not have a structured shelter that your horse can use. Make sure the blanket is ‘water-proof’ and not ‘water- resistant’ as water-resistant blankets will eventually allow water to soak in. If the horse is wet under the blanket, he’ll be just as cold as if he didn’t have a blanket on. It is important for you to check the blanket often for placement, dryness, and cleanliness. A dirty blanket can cause fungal infections. Regular grooming during the winter months is imperative to keeping your horse fungus free. It also provides you with an opportunity to make sure the blanket isn’t rubbing anywhere.

Nutrition

Your horse should have a great body condition as he goes into the winter months. A poor body conditioned horse will not fare well during this time of year, and you will be investing more money trying to keep him healthy. You should provide your horse with quality, clean hay (roughage). While hay preferences vary, always insure the hay is clean and mold-free. Most sources identify the amount of hay to feed your horse is between 1% - 2% of his total body weight. In other words, a 1,000 pound horse should consume a daily ration of 10 to 20 pounds of hay. I will again keep my eye on the weather forecast, and if it seems a severe batch of winter weather is coming, I will increase the amount of hay I feed two or three days in advance to aid my horse in keeping warm.

Graining and supplementation of your horse should continue at the amounts/portions fed prior to winter weather. This is, of course, depending upon exercise and body condition. Always check your horse’s body condition by running your hand over their barrel feeling for their ribs, as well as along their backbone and croup feeling for bony protrusions. If your horse is loosing condition, minimally and systematically increase their grain intake. A general rule of thumb is to increase grain quantities by ¼ measures each week until the body condition begins to improve, and then continue that amount/portion throughout the winter months.

Water

One of the greatest misnomers I have ever heard portrayed is that ‘horses can get all the water they need from eating snow.” While some horses may eat snow, they would have to eat a lot of it to achieve the minimum of 5- 10 gallons a day that is required. Clean, ice-free water should be available to your horse at all times. Since your horse’s diet is primarily hay/roughage, water will aid in its digestion. Some horses will not drink an adequate amount of water during the winter months as cold water is not very palatable to them. Always keep a salt block available during the winter to encourage drinking.

Heat tape applied to your barn faucets will keep your water source from freezing. Heated water buckets and/or water tank heaters are available at most horse/stock suppliers. Using bales of straw as an insulator around a water trough can also aid in keeping water ice free. If you don’t have an electricity source at your barn, you can always heat up water and take it to your horse. While a little more arduous for you, it will assuage your fears that your horse isn’t getting enough water.

Exercise

Throughout the winter months it is important to keep your horse in good shape. Don’t let them become a pasture-potato just because it’s snowy and cold out. Light exercise is the key with 2 or 3 weekly ½ hour sessions recommended. Whether you choose to lounge-line, round pen, or ride your horse make sure your emphasis is on ‘light’; don’t overwork him to where he is sweating profusely, as he will quickly chill. Utilize some type of blanket to cover his croup while riding to keep his muscles from being cold and having spasms from the workout. Always cool him out and make sure he is adequately dried after the exercise session. Fluff up his hair a little to allow air to get in which will then be warmed next to his skin and thereby providing warmth.

Hoof Care

Some may believe that hoof care is not an important issue during the winter as horses are not ridden as often. While hoof growth may slow some during the winter months, it is still of utmost importance that you continue to have your farrier check your horse’s hooves and trim them as necessary. Many abscesses form over the winter months and are caused by the hoof’s impact against frozen ground.

If your horse is shod during the riding season, having their shoes pulled during the winter will give their feet a break allowing the hoof wall to thicken and give the sole a chance to toughen up. If you keep your horse shod during the winter because of riding preferences or perhaps because of a pre- existing hoof condition, it is important that you keep the foot ‘snowball’ free, as snow will accumulate between the sole and the shoe forming a ‘ball’, which will make walking unbalanced and difficult. I have had great success in keeping shod feet free of snow by using petroleum jelly. Simply clean out the hoof and apply the petroleum jelly with a hoof brush. This will need to be repeated often (as long as you have snow cover), but it is very effective in keeping the snowballs from forming.

Since there is an abundance of moisture during this time of year, whether it comes from standing in snow, water, mud, or a mucky stall, your horse will be greatly susceptible to thrush. Continuing your daily practice of cleaning your horse’s feet will reduce the risk of your horse contracting thrush. If your horse is stall bound for a greater number of hours, make sure the stall is kept clean. Woody Pet is a great product on the market today that absorbs moisture in stalls.

Following the above-mentioned points will allow you to ‘winterize’ your horse and keep him happy and healthy while you both await springtime and the awakening of a new riding year.

What To Do Before the Snow Falls

By MaryKay Ruble

As the leaves change color, and a chill wind begins to blow, a few simple steps need to be taken before winter snows fall. While this may not be a complete list, it is intended to be a starting point, and certainly, different areas with varying weather conditions will prepare in manners specific to impending conditions.

1) Move all liquids, sprays and temperature-controlled items into the house, basement or heated lounge or tack room to prevent freezing and rupturing of containers. This will save time and money next spring between clean-up and replacements of bottles and sprayers that have frozen, split and then drained their contents in your barn or tack box.

2) Do a maintenance check of all doors, sliding and hinged, latches, water heater, area heaters, feed storage containers, fence chargers, mechanical systems and fire extinguishers. None of these items are fun to change out when the temperatures have dipped into the single digits and wind chill is measured in the negative.

3) Put up, or line up a steady, reliable supply of good hay. In cold weather, your horse will derive more body heat from hay than grain. Supplying adequate amounts of hay during winter turn-out may keep horses from pawing through snow for forage. In the early spring months, supplying hay during turn out may save your pastures from becoming mud bogs as the horses move around in search of grazing areas. This movement during muddy conditions may bury or destroy any new grass growth.

4) Check tack and blankets for any repairs or cleaning that may need to be done. Repairs to leather may require that the item be shipped out to a professional. Winter may be a time for you to do this; you may not be riding as often, or may be willing to ride bareback for the added warmth and can relinquish your saddle to the postman. Blanket repairs will need to be done in advance of colder weather so that they are on-hand when needed. Keep a roll of duct tape in the barn for quick repairs when you can’t send the blanket out for mending.

5) Check with your vet to see what vaccinations are recommended for the fall or winter months. This may also be the time for an equine dental check-up. Keep up with your worming schedule, supplements and farrier visits. Although hoof growth generally slows during cold weather, and while most shod horses are left barefoot for winter turn-out, regular trims are still ideal.

6) The fall season is also a good time to check fence lines for maintenance, add strands to existing fence, or put up new fence. The ground may be more workable at this time, and you won’t have bugs, heat or humidity to contend with during the hard work.

7) If you own a trailer and tow vehicle, now is also a good time to do any scheduled or necessary maintenance on them.

Horse Flies

By Mary Kay Ruble

Horse flies and deer flies, which fall into the same fly family, are the bane of many horse-people’s existence, with their biting, buzzing and usual annoying dive-bombing tactics. It seems that not only must we worry about ourselves and our horses being bitten, but we also worry about what our horses will do to evade the bite itself, sometimes putting us at risk of being kicked, bumped, trod over or stepped on.

Of the 2000 species of horse flies world-wide, several of those species need a blood meal to develop eggs, but of those, only the females will bite and draw blood from mammals and humans. With their knife-like mouth parts, and painful bites, the flies are static in their feeding methods, as a host animal will make evasive maneuvers once bitten, cutting short the fly’s snack time. The horse fly will infuse an anticoagulant to keep their meal free-flowing, and once it finishes, will fly away, leaving an open, blood-oozing wound for secondary feeders to dine on, and spread diseases thru. Along with the bite and draw of blood, horse flies can spread Equine Infectious Anemia and according to a 1990 issue of The New England Journal of Medicine can also transmit Lyme disease.

The less vicious male fly will dine on plant juices, nectar and other plant liquids, rarely upsetting the lives of our horses, until he searches out a female to play the reproductive game with.

The female will lay her eggs on vegetation that hangs over wetlands, streams, ponds or lakes. Nearly every species of horse fly is aquatic or semi-aquatic and their larvae require a moist area in which to mature and spend the winter. Conveniently, once the eggs hatch, it is a short drop into water for the lucky larvae.

Mature horse flies are attracted to shiny objects, movement, warmth and possibly carbon dioxide, which explain why human swimmers in the glittering water of backyard pools are often bothered by horse flies.

Because eradication of their breeding-ground wetlands is unlikely, and in most areas of the U.S is highly regulated, we will be forced to suffer the cohabitation of the dreaded horse fly during our summer daylight riding hours. If we can limit the amount of shiny bling that we and our horses wear, lower our body temperatures, don’t move and don’t breathe, we should be safe from the flies! Good luck to us all!