The HorseSaddleShop.com Staff Reveal their Top Christmas Gifts for Horse Lovers

If you don’t own a horse, you might sympathize with Mark Twain when he said, “I can always tell which is the front end of a horse, but beyond that, my art is not above the ordinary.” Many people are purchasing a gift for a horse lover this Christmas season. Yet it’s difficult to buy for these recipients without a western enthusiast’s heart. That’s why HorseSaddleShop.com has put together a Christmas Gift List for Horse Lovers containing items which most horse owners would love to receive. Not only does it spark the imagination of horse owners in creating their requests, but it also aids the givers who may need help buying for them.

Horse lovers are passionate about the members of their family---those in the pasture and in the house. But despite the joys of training, riding, and showing, owning a horse can be expensive. The Christmas season becomes an opportunity to provide for needs and splurge a little. A gift for a horse and its owner is unlike other gifts in that it not only fills a need or desire, but also provides a better experience for horse and rider. The trails are more enjoyable, the showman more confident, the horse more comfortable; someone just might be running out to the stable on Christmas day.

Another issue in selecting a gift for a horse owner is secrecy. Without knowing how to select the perfect fit, choosing a saddle can be a daunting task. HorseSaddleShop.com is proud to offer the resources even a beginner can use to buy their first saddle or upgrade the saddle of a loved one. From choosing the right seat size to downloadable gullet templates, the site has every aspect of saddle purchasing covered. Their staff members also offer years of experience and are able to help customers choose a saddle over the phone while maintaining the confidentiality that’s crucial to Christmas surprises.

The top posters of DailyEquine.com, valued voices of experience and knowledge on the western forum, also selected their best ideas for Christmas gifts from the Horse Saddle Shop. Their choices range from brass bridle brackets to new saddles, helmets to bits.

So whether the gift under the tree is for the local John Wayne or Mr. Ed, HorseSaddleShop.com has it covered.

To view the Horse Saddle Shop’s extensive inventory of western saddles and tack, visit www.horsesaddleshop.com.

Before the Snow Falls: Getting Your Barn Ready for the Winter

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

While it may be hard to fathom during late summer or early fall that snow will be blowing; winter will be here before you know it. Now is the time to prepare your barn for the winter months. Anticipation for the cold season ahead and advanced preparation for such will make the transition into the winter season much easier and safer for you and your horses. Here are a few suggestions on how to transition your barn from summer to winter:

• Clear the clutter. Clean out your tack room. Inventory your tack and grooming implements. Toss the ones that are worn or broken. Recoup some cash for those that you may have duplicates of (Ebay, garage sale, tack auction, etc.). Clean up aisle ways, wash bays, indoor arenas. Remove stall fans to storage, inspecting them for any damage to electrical cord and components, Discard if any are noted. Store light-weight sheets and blankets, replacing them with winter blankets to have readily available for those cold and frigid turnout mornings. If any blanket needs to be repaired, now is the time to do it. If the aisle way to your barn is pea gravel, you may consider bringing in a new load and raking it smooth to provide for stable and dry footing over the winter months. Warm weather delivery serves the dual purpose of advance preparedness and prevents muddy tire trenches that may result from winter time gravel delivery.
• Inventory your medicine cabinet and cleaning/grooming supply chest and remove any items that will freeze or somehow be adversely affected or damaged by cold temperatures. This would be a good time to take note of what medical or grooming supplies you might need to replace or purchase explicitly for winter-time usage.
• Indoor air quality is very important to horses and humans alike during the winter months. Dispose of old hay and bedding. Sweep out dusty hay loft floors; de-cobweb stalls and aisle ways, particularly around lighting fixtures.
• Inspect all electrical components. Make sure your outlet boxes are cleaned of cobwebs and dust, and are securely mounted. Inspect outlet ports for power, noting those that are not working properly as the wiring may need to be inspected by an electrician. Inspect wiring for any wear and tear. If damage is noted, contract a licensed electrician to replace. Inspect electrical cords of any electrical implement that may be used. Replace all fuses and double check that the correct fuse is installed appropriately (i.e., if the slot in the electrical box calls for 10 amp fuse, don't put a 30 amp fuse in). Check the circuit box for weak circuits. Fire/electrocution hazards can be prevented by replacing weak circuits and blown fuses. Inspect fire extinguishers for charge. Replace batteries in existing smoke detectors. If you don't have smoke detectors, consider installing them. Inspect any electric water-heating devices for wear and damage. Discard and replace if any is noted.
• Insulate any exposed water pipes with spray polyurethane foam, do not use electrical tape. Replace water hose with one that does not freeze.
• Prepare stalls for usage by installing stall mats or bedding that will alleviate the build up of excessive ammonia from urine. Ammonia can damage your horse's lungs and be a major contributory factor for upper respiratory infection. The rule of thumb is: if you can smell ammonia, the damage has already been done. Re-working the stalls will also provide better footing and prevent possible casting incidences.
• Check all the hardware (latches, hinges, etc.) on stall doors to ensure they are not damaged or in need of replacement. Horses have been seriously injured by damaged stall door hardware.
• Eliminate excessive draftiness. While you do not necessarily want an air-tight barn, neither do you want one that is so drafty your horse may be inordinately chilled. Seal any major air leaks in stalls by repairing/replacing boards and/or window shutters.

Being proactive and prepared for the upcoming winter season will ease you into winter with a lot fewer worries during those cold winter nights when you know your horses are comfortable and warmly bedded down in their stalls. Happy trails!

The Assurance of Insurance: Should you Carry Insurance on your Horse?

By Darlene M. Cox

Recreational riding and horse ownership has seen exponential growth over the past few years. Young and old alike enjoy horseback riding and are always looking forward to the next opportunity to throw a leg over the saddle and enjoy the special connection that exists between rider and horse.

Your horse, although a cohort and compatriot to countless hours of enjoyment, is a major monetary investment, regardless of his purchase price. Any seasoned horse person will tell you that the price for which you purchase your horse is just the tip of the iceberg when it is compared to upkeep and preventive care costs. Just as we protect other major investments that we have in our lives (vehicles, homes, businesses) with insurance polices, we can also protect the investment of our beloved equine friends.

There are several insurance policies available to horse owners, but the two most important are: Major medical/surgical and mortality (death).

The health and well-being of your horse is tantamount to your riding pleasure. Responsible horse ownership dictates that we conscientiously take the best possible care of our trusted equine partner. Those of us who own horses understand how expensive such care can be. Even preventive care (annual vaccinations, timely de-worming programs, teeth floating, shoeing, etc.) can be costly; however, when unexpected major health concerns arise, some will find themselves facing the difficult decision of spending hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars towards medical treatment for their horse. Major medical/surgical insurance, which covers veterinary costs for accident, injury, illness or disease, will eliminate the heart-wrenching decision an owner makes when evaluating a major monetary loss (medical bills) to his horse's life (euthanasia). Before the availability of major medical/surgical policies, the necessity of colic surgery (with costs exceeding $4,000) all but clenched the horse owner's decision to euthanize their horse or face a major financial burden. The cost of insurance is minimal when compared to the expense of a major surgery or illness.

Many have had the emotion- laden heartbreak of losing a horse to death. Our losses are huge, both emotionally and financially. Gone from us is that special four-legged friend with whom we spent countless hours, and we grieve in our hearts for that loss. The financial impact of our loss is great as well when you factor in the purchase price of your horse, the care and upkeep, training, etc. that you invested into him. Investing in mortality insurance policy will protect you against the financial loss is your horse dies and will provide you with a way to recoup the money you had invested in your horse. Receipt of the benefits from a mortality policy may well be the financial resources you would need to find a suitable replacement for the horse you just loss.

We do not hesitate to protect ourselves from major financial loss related to the life and health of a loved one; therefore, we carry medical and life insurance on ourselves, spouse, or children. Protecting our financial investments that happen to be grazing in the field makes prudent sense as responsible horse owners. There are many insurance companies that carry horse-related insurances and can provide cost-free quotes. Investigate for yourself and determine if adding insurance coverage on your horse may be an option for you. It would be good to know your financial investment was well protected at trails end.

Happy trails!

Choosing a Boarding Facility

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com



While the perfect horse ownership scenario would have your horse happily ensconced in his pasture or barn right outside your backdoor, many horse owners do not own a farm or other sufficient land and find it necessary to locate a boarding facility to house their horse. But how do you go about selecting a boarding facility and how do you know if it is the right one? Before any consideration or selection of facilities is made, you must remember this one key statement: There are no perfect boarding facilities-- period. If it was perfect, it would be on your own land. Keeping this very important statement in mind will help you when it comes time to choose the facility that's right for you.

It is important to make personal visits to several boarding facilities to evaluate them for safety and suitability. Pastures need to have safe fencing and be clutter free. Go into the stalls and check out the water buckets; are they clean with fresh water? Evaluate the stall flooring and the type of bedding that is used. Is it suitable for what you like used for your horse? Are there any exposed electrical wires hanging down in the stalls? Any exposed nails? Talk not only to the barn managers, but also to any boarder who may be there to get their opinion of the facility. If the barn manager bristles about your talking with another boarder, consider that a bad sign and mark that facility off of your list. Ask questions, ask questions, and ask questions. Will the facility be responsible for providing grain and hay? Inspect the quality of the grain and hay. Will they do the feedings, or will you be responsible for feeding? How many times a day will your horse be fed? Will they feed your supplements or feed additives? Who will have access to your horse? How many people are on staff? What is the experience level of the boarding staff? Does the management share your vision of acceptable/accountable horse care? What is the contact procedure for any emergency that may arise? Will they call your vet or use the vet that comes to the barn? In the event of injury, will they provide the daily care for your horse? Will your horse be stall boarded or pasture boarded? Will your horse be turned out? Does the barn arrange for vet and farrier visits? Is there room for you to park your horse trailer (if applicable)? Does the facility have individual tack storage areas? Are the pastures safe and clutter-free? How many horses will be turned out on pasture together? Are the horses segregated based on gender (i.e., mares, geldings, stallions)?

What are the rules of the barn? Some boarding facilities may be lax on their rules and others may be over- bearing; you need to choose which will better suit your tastes in being told what to do and when to do it.

What kind of facility is it? Does it offer lessons? Does it have indoor and outdoor arenas? Does it have other amenities that you like, or dislike? What type of boarder keeps their horse there? If you are strictly a trail rider and the facility houses mostly show horses, you may not find the atmosphere conducive to garnering friendships with anyone there or you may feel there is no connectivity between you and others.

How will your horse fit into a boarding facility? Is he one that is used to being turned out with several other horses or is he used to being alone or with only one other horse?

If a signed boarding contract is required, read over the contract carefully and then re-read it. All of the rules of the facility should be listed in the contract. Everything that management expects from you, the boarder, should be spelled out in the contract. If no boarding contract is required, it may be best to go elsewhere. Get references from the barn manager. Phone the references to get their candid opinions of the boarding facility, its operation, and its management. Inquiries can also be made from local vets and feed stores of area boarding facilities.

If the above questions can be answered to your satisfaction, then finding the boarding facility right for you and your horse just got easier. If the questions cannot be satisfactorily answered, you need to continue your search or find a good realtor who can sell you a prime piece of farmland where you can put your horse right outside your backdoor.

Happy trails!

The Old Gray Mare, She Ain't What She Used to Be - She's Much Better: Caring for the Geriatric Horse

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com



Along with today's increase in recreational horse ownership also comes an increase in the number of geriatric-aged horses who now easily live well into their 30's. This increase in aged equine longevity can be attributed to the better knowledge of horse health management that responsible horse owners have obtained and applied through their many years of horse ownership. Good health care and nutrition keeps many of our equine senior citizens happy and productive through much of their elderly lives.

The importance of good health care and appropriate nutrition for geriatric horses is greatly evident based upon the natural time-factored breakdown of a horse's system as they reach geriatric age (15+ years). Older horses are more greatly susceptible to problems from parasitic infestations, infectious diseases (Cushings), colic, enteroliths (stones in the intestinal track), choke, laminitis, founder, tooth problems (extensive wear, breakage, abscesses, or tooth loss), weight gain/loss, decreased digestive ability, cardiovascular illness, arthritis, and stress. Routine bi-annual veterinarian examinations are prudent for geriatric horses and should encompass a complete blood work-up, body scoring, fecal parasite count, dental exam, evaluation of the gastrointestinal track, lungs, eyes, feet, legs, joints, inspection of the body for melanoma tumors or other suspicious growths.

Good nutrition is of utmost importance when caring for the geriatric horse, as many of the above-listed problems can be tied directly to nutrition. As in the geriatric populations of many species, the horse has a problem with digestion and requires an easily digestible food that is also highly nutritious and meets the needs of his aging body. Senior horses require feeds that are softer and easier to chew, yet are higher in protein and easily digestible carbohydrates low in starch. Probiotic supplementation will aid in preventive measures to ward off the development of health problems. Laxatives can aid in keeping the intestinal track moving; however, it is important that the laxative used not upset the intestinal water concentration in the hind gut. You don't want to induce diarrhea, which will lead to intestinal complications and weight loss.

A geriatric horse's health can deteriorate rapidly; therefore, it is a good measure to be diligently attentive to her daily appearance and behavior, making notes of any little changes you might see (listlessness, not eating/drinking, posturing, etc.) This may assist your vet in determining a problem if a call must be made for a farm visit. One of the biggest problems with geriatric horse health involves their teeth. Always be attentive to your older horse's mouth, especially if you notice her not eating or if she has really bad breath, which will be indicative of an abscess infection.

Exercise is a very important factor in keeping your geriatric horse in good health. Keeping her on a regular and routine exercise plan will naturally aid her ability to stave off any arbitrary health conditions attributable to inactivity.

Being ever vigilant and knowledgeable about the care your senior horse requires will prevent life threatening illness and keep her in your barn and heart for years to come.

Happy trails!

Effective Pasture Management for Small Acreage Farms

By Darlene M. Cox

Living close to and working in the Horse Capital of the World (Lexington, Kentucky) provides me many opportunities to drive through 'horse country' and enjoy the beautiful picturesque views of horses grazing on rolling carpets of thick, lush, green grass from virtually weed-free pastures. These beautifully maintained pastures are in stark contrast to the ones that may be found on farms of smaller acreage that many recreational horse owners have. It is possible, however, for your small, family-owned farm to mirror, on a smaller scale, those Kodak-moment inspired pastures of Kentucky 's Thoroughbred industry.

I recently had an opportunity to converse with a senior grounds keeper of one of the more prestigious and renowned horse farms in Kentucky about pasture management and how effective pasture maintenance plans could be utilized for smaller farms. Regardless of the number of acres to be managed, it all boils down to the same fundamental practices:

§ Soil samples should be taken to determine fertilizer requirements. Based upon the testing results, a lime-potassium- phosphorous fertilizer should be applied. This application can be done at any time during the year; however, it is important to have the soil sample results prior to fertilizing, because applying too much fertilizer cause harm to soil. Nitrogen should be applied to pastures late in the fall to set up the pastures for a healthy growth of spring time grass.

§ Fecal egg counts should be done on your horses to determine the number of parasites that may infest pastures. Along with adherence to a timely and effective de-worming schedule for your horses, you should also 'drag' pastures to break up manure piles and expose any parasitic eggs to the sun, which will effectively kill off the parasite.

§ Begin preparation and planning of your spring pastures in the fall. If you seed your own pastures with your own implements, make sure the equipment is in good repair and ready to go. If you hire it out to someone, schedule a firm date with no more than a week's window time to ensure the pasture prep work is done timely. Fall is best for seeding cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, orchard grass) and late winter or really early spring is best for seeding clover.

§ Managing damage control to pastures on small acreage farms is tantamount to growing season productivity. During winter and the early spring wet season, horses should not be turned out, as to stave off the mud and muck build-up and destruction of grass root systems. One viable alternative is to partition off part of the pasture for use during inclimate seasons. The reasoning behind this is it's best to lose part of your pasture than all of it. If this is not a feasible solution, you can also minimize damage by rotating hay feeding locations. It is also a good idea to limit any vehicle traffic (i.e., farm truck, tractor, manure spreader, etc.) during this time period.

§ The acreage size and the number of horses on your pastures will affect the amount of usage you get from your pastures. It is important to maintain an appropriate horse-to-acreage ratio. Farms with smaller acreage need to be more closely managed related to the amount of grazing time permitted. Horses are the ultimate grazing machines, as they were created with that specific purpose in mind. Horses are continuous grazers; simply put, if grass is in front of theme, they are going to eat it. A horse will consume as much as 2% to 2.4% of their body weight, per day, in grass, (i.e., a 1200-lb horse will eat between 24 - 28 pounds of grass per day). Effective rotation and/or dry-lotting your horses to allow your pastures time to rebound and will help keep them established. Pasture rebound time can vary between location and time of year. Generally, 20 days minimum should be allowed for pastures to 'rest' before horses are placed back on them.

§ The grazing season in Kentucky can run from March (when the cool-season grasses really start coming on) through November (when the first killing frosts of winter arrive). This is nine months of grazing time that requires proper management to keep the grass yield and health of your pastures at an optimal level to best benefit your horses. An effective pasture rotation system can be undertaken with the implementation of segmented pasturing, which breaks up the whole pasture into multiple segments from which the horses will be rotated from one to the next, allowing previously grazed segments to recover and gain new grass growth, while out competing the growth of new broadleaf weeds. Effective rotation cycles will also disrupt parasite cycles.

§ An effective broadleaf weed herbicide should be applied in early spring, while the weeds are still small. A high emphasis is placed on properly using the herbicide and applying the recommended amount. As with any chemical, read and follow all labeling instructions prior to use. I realize that many owners of small farms may be hesitant to implement an herbicide program on their pastures for fear of harm that may befall their horses; however, the efficacy of herbicide programs is quite evident when looking at Kentucky 's horse farms, which house the world's most expensive Thoroughbred horses. It is evident and apparent that an accurate and efficient herbicide application program can be successfully implemented whereas not to adversely affect the lives and well-being of horses housed on these farms.

Utilization of the above pasture- management principals will aide in keeping your pastures healthy and established throughout the year. You may even have the perfect green back-fall for your own Kodak moment.

Happy trails!

Foal Watch: The Signs of Foaling

By Darlene M. Cox

Many of us who have owned broodmares can attest that there are certain signs that indicate foaling time is near. These signs most generally will fit into a time frame ranging from weeks, days, and hours to foaling.

It is best to start out with a general knowledge of when a mare was bred. Foaling is most likely to occur when a pregnancy reaches the gestational age between 320 and 370 days. Some folks may believe their mare is overdue once she reaches 345 days, with day 340 or 341 being the mean average. Remember that the gestational clock is run by the foal's internal battery, which will induce labor once the foal has adequately and sufficiently developed in utero.

Impending birth signs and their time span prior to foaling are estimated as follows:

• 2 to 6 weeks - the mare's teats and udder will begin to swell and enlarge. Sometimes (in maiden mares, particularly) the udder and teats may swell and recede a couple of times. I've never noticed this occurring with established broodmares.
  
• 1 week to 2 weeks - The croup muscles around the tail dock and vulva of the mare will begin to relax and feel "spongey." The vulva may appear swollen when it is relaxed.
  
• 4 to 6 days - The mare's udder will fill with milk and the teats will become engorged.
  
• 2 to 4 days - Waxing (leaking or streaming of colostrum) will form on the teats.
  
• Hours to minutes - The mare will appear agitated and restless, even colicky-acting. She may bite or kick at her sides, or lay down repeatedly. Sweating may be obvious.

These signs, in their entirety, may or may not be exhibited by all mares. Most particularly of these are waxing and milk engorgement. Some mares do not wax at all and may not show signs of milk engorgement until shortly before birth.

Of particular noteworthiness is how each mare individually exhibits these signs. The impending birth signs a maiden broodmare exhibits will most likely stay with her throughout her breeding career. Interestingly, a mare will tend to deliver around the same timeframe, give or take an hour or two.

For those who are awaiting new arrivals this spring, good luck to you during your foal watch. I hope you are able to be witness to such a splendid event.

Happy Trails!