Leading a Horse To Water: Prevention of Dehydration while Trail Riding

By Darlene Cox

One of the most important requirements of your horse during trail riding is keeping him hydrated. Dehydration may lead to your horse to a bout of colic, tying-up (azoturia), or heat stroke. Dehydration severities can range from mild to life threatening, or even death. Maintaining the proper balance of water and electrolytes for your horse is imperative to his health and your peace of mind. There is no fear greater to any horseman than to be miles out on a trail and have your horse in peril of dying.

Hydration needs of your horse while trail riding are different than when he is at home relaxing in his pasture. Traveling and trail riding are stressful and you may find your horse refusing to drink while on the road, on the trail, or in camp. There may be many factors in the equation that keeps your horse from drinking: the water may not taste the same; he horse is too excited with his new surroundings and will not be calm enough to drink; he may be overheated; or he may have an imbalance in electrolytes.

While riding, we should be ever vigilant of our horse's hydration, and there are several ways that you can test to make sure he is hydrated:

• Skin pinch test - Pinch the skin over the point of the shoulder. If your horse if fully hydrated, his skin will pop back immediately. However, the skin will remain tented (pinched up) the more dehydrated a horse becomes.

• Capillary refill test - Press your thumb against your horse's upper gums. Once you remove it, count the seconds it takes for the area to return to the same color (the depressed area will appear white right after you remove your thumb). It is best to have a baseline number in mind taken at a time when you knew your horse to be fully hydrated. The longer it takes for the capillaries to refill, the more dehydrated your horse is.

• Mucous membrane test of inner eye lid and gums - Observe a baseline color of gums and inner eye lid. This can probably range from pink to a pinkish-yellowish color. Gums should be moist. If the color is dark red, then your horse is dehydrated. Again, you are looking for a deviation in color from the baseline.

• Jugular vein refill test - Squeeze off the jugular vein for a moment before allowing it to refill. Count the elapsed time before refill. Again, having a baseline reading is important.

• Gut sounds - If you are proficient with the use of a stethoscope, you can listen to the upper and lower gut sounds to determine hydration. Obtain a baseline reading first. Reduced gut sounds are indicative of dehydration.

There are several steps that we as responsible horse owners can take to insure that our horse is adequately hydrated during trail riding.

• Introduce your horse to electrolytes or other flavorings (Kool-aid, Gatorade, etc.) in his water several days prior to trail riding. This will get your horse used to the taste of the electrolytes and/or flavoring additives, and he will not hesitate to drink them while on the trail ride. Electrolytes will generally stimulate a horse to drink because they are salty. If your horse does not like the taste of the electrolytes or flavorings, bring along a small salt block or add salt to his feed while in camp to encourage drinking.

• If possible, bring water from home and offer to your horse during rest breaks while trailering. Some horses will not drink water from different sources, because it tastes different. However, bringing along the water that he is used to may prompt him to drink. Offer water several times during each stop.

• As soon as you get to camp and off-load your horse, fill up his water bucket and get him settled in before moving off to other things. Keep in mind that your horse will be stressed from the drive, being in different surroundings, and around other horses.
  

• While on the trail the cardinal rule to remember is to NEVER PASS UP WATER! Each time you need to stop and allow your horse an opportunity to drink. If you are riding in a group of horses, it is important that all riders understand they must remain close at hand to allow every horse an opportunity to drink. If the first riders water their horses and then move on down the trail, those horses left behind will not want to drink for fear of being left behind. Be courteous and thoughtful; always make sure that all horses drink their fill before leaving the watering source.

Some younger horses that are not used to drinking from trail water sources (creeks, ponds, lakes, rivers) may not initially venture to the water because of their uncertainty. Having a been-there-done-that horse in the group go into or to the water first will show the more timid horse that it is okay. This actually mimics horse herd dynamic behavior as often one horse will drink first before the others follow.

Bring along a tube of electrolyte paste in your saddle bags to use in an emergency while on the trail. The tube I always brought along was often time needed either for my own horse or someone else's horse.


Incorporating the above steps will keep your horse happy and well throughout the trail riding season.

Happy trails!

Shave and A Haircut: Teaching Your Horse to Stand for Clipping

By Darlene M. Cox---darlc5@aol.com

If you have been around horses for any length of time, you have probably encountered a horse that will not tolerate being clipped. Perhaps the horse believes those noisy, tingly clippers to be a horse-eating monster or perhaps the world's largest horsefly. Regardless, he's going to have none of it! Further attempts of clipping a horse that is fearful can be dangerous for you and him.

If you have a horse that is not comfortable with your hand touching his ears, face, legs, etc., you've got a horse that will not tolerate clippers. You want your horse to be comfortable and relaxed as you clip him; worry free and without a care. But how do you get there? As with many other training methods, you need to desensitize your horse to the sight, sound, and feel of the clippers.

The following steps will enable you to accomplish clipping your horse safely:

1. If your horse does not like his ears, head, muzzle, face, eyes or legs touched, you must first get him to accept your hands on him before you will ever be able to get him to accept the clippers. Once you have him accepting your touch without any resistance, you can then introduce the clippers.

2. With the clippers turned off, let your horse see, smell, and touch them. Wave them around in front of his face. Let him get used to seeing them in your hand. Rub them on his neck and then move up to his head, around the jaw and then move them up to his ears, eyes, and muzzle. Take the clippers down to his legs. Starting at the elbow, rub them down the leg to the fetlock.

Once he stands calmly as you rub the clippers over his body as they are turned off, you can then move on to the next step.

3. Stand by your horse's head and turn the clippers on. Let him get used to the sound. Turn them off and on. Wave the humming clippers around in front of his face to let him see the movement and hear the clippers as they move from one position to the next. If he reaches out to inspect them, let him; but make sure he doesn't put his nose on the blade end.

Move the clippers toward his ears, letting him hear the sound close up. He may lift his head higher to move away from the sound, but when he drops his head turn off the clippers and pat him, speak softly to him to reward him. It may take you a while to get him used to having the clippers around his ears, but continue the method of turning off the clippers and rewarding him with a pat each time he lowers his head.

4. Once he is comfortable with the turned on clippers being moved around in front of his face and the reverberating sound of them in his ears, it is time to touch him with them as they are turned on. This will be a whole new experience, because now he will be able to feel the vibration as well as hear them. Again, I start at the neck and lay the clipper body, not the blade, against his skin. You will get a reaction. Use the above reward method when your horse relaxes a little. From the neck, I move to the jaw, and down to the muzzle, up the other jaw to the ear, where you will have the biggest reaction from your horse. He will definitely raise his head high, but when he drops it even a little, turn off the clippers and pat him.

Do the same thing with his legs. Again, starting at the elbow and working your way down to the fetlock, lay the body of the clippers against his leg and work your way down. Once he stands still, reward him by turning the clippers off.

5. Now it is time to introduce the clipper blade to your horse. Always start with the muzzle, chin, underside of the jaw, poll (bridle path), and finish up with the ears. Clip a little with the blade. If your horse reacts to the feeling of the blade, revert to desensitizing him again with just the feel of the vibrating clippers.

For the legs, turn the clippers on and start from the elbow move the clipper body down to the fetlock. Once there, initiate the blade on the feathers of the fetlock. If there is any reaction from your horse, move the body of the clippers back up the leg and then return to the fetlock.


Patient consistency will allow you desensitize and train your horse to stand while being clipped. You will, most likely, need to repeat these steps several times before your horse is fully comfortable with the clipping process. However, your efforts will be worth it once you see how nice your horse looks with his new shave and a haircut.

Happy trails!

Teaching Your Horse to Stand Tied

By Darlene M. Cox---darlc5@aol.com

One of the most fundamental parts of training your horse is teaching him to stand tied. Regardless of the discipline in which you use your horse (showing, eventing, trail riding, etc.), standing quietly while tied is universal. I am sure many have heard the adage, "You must walk before you run". Well, in the horse world, your horse must learn to stand before he can be tied.

Throughout my many years around horses and different horse people, I have seen some amazingly dangerous methods utilized to teach a horse to stand tied. From short-snubbing a horse to a rail, or tying the rope to a tractor wheel, these methods invoked fear as the horse fought the rope and tire trying to escape. I have actually seen a horse die by breaking its neck from thrashing around and pulling hard on the rope. This comes as no surprise as one of the weakest areas on a horse's body is where the poll (head) joins the neck.

Before even thinking about teaching your horse to stand tied you must first teach him to lead and stand in hand, because this is where he first begins to understand giving to the pressure of the lead rope. He will have a general understanding of what the lead rope is and that the pressure is off when he moves forward. Pressure can be applied in two methods: pulling down the lead rope and placing pressure across the poll, applying pressure at the side causing your horse to become off balanced, yet taking a step toward the lead. Each time he responds to the pressure remember to immediately release the pressure and praise him.

Once you have your horse leading, you can then move on to teaching him to stand, and from there to stand tied. Up until this point, your horse has been used to following you. Now, he must get used to standing while you move away. This can be effectively taught by leading your horse to a point and asking him to stand. Once he is standing with you beside him, take a step or two away from him. If he tries to follow, quickly correct him by backing him up a few steps and then moving him forward and again asking him to stand. You may have to repeat this several times, and each time move further away. He will understand what you are asking him and will begin to stand quietly. This training method will also effectively work in ground tying your horse.

Once you have taught your horse to stand, he can now be taught to stand tied. Always incorporate a break-away halter while training. It is better to have a broken leather strap than a broken neck. The safest way to incorporate tying is to place a tie ring in a wall stud slightly higher than head level. Put the rope through the ring and hold onto the end. Do not tie it. This will allow your horse to move away from the ring if he becomes scared and will not invoke his fight or flight instinct to battle the rope to free himself. By holding the rope end, you can apply pressure and release it if your horse becomes frightened.

As with teaching your horse to stand, you will want to move away from your horse gradually increasing the distance. With rope in hand, you will still be able to apply pressure or release if your horse becomes combative and frightened.

Once your horse is standing quietly with the rope through the ring and you holding the end, it is time to move on to actually tying the rope. Incorporate a "quick release knot" (illustration above) and provide slack in the rope, but not enough to entangle his legs. You can expect your horse to test the rope. If he pulls back a little on it, move to his side and apply pressure causing him to take a step forward to regain balance, and thus releasing pressure on the rope. This teaches him to step up and remove the pressure. If he panics, quickly pull on the rope to quickly release the knot.


After several sessions, your horse will be standing quietly and you can be assured the training you have successfully finished will remain with him throughout his life.

Happy trails!

Tying-Up: How to Identify, Manage, and Prevent this Condition in your Horse

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Now that warm weather has returned, we are all chomping at the bit to get our horses back into shape and ready to take on the many trail rides of the season. In our eagerness to return to the trails, we may skip a step or two in the conditioning process for our horses or perhaps speed up the process, working them a little longer and harder than what may be prudent.

Overworked horses may experience a condition called "tying up", which is also known by a host of other names, such as: azoturia, rhabdomyolysis, exertional myopathy, and Monday morning sickness. While the science of this condition is not fully understood, it basically boils down to the horse having an all-over-the-body muscle cramp caused by toxins that build up in the muscles.

Exercise is the predisposing factor to the onset of tying-up and muscle degeneration resultant from high levels of lactic acid and low oxygen in the muscle tissues. Feeding a high-carbohydrate diet during training down times (i.e., feeding the same amount to your horse at leisure as when working) will put your horse at risk of tying up. There are other mitigating factors that may figure into susceptibility, and these include: electrolyte balance, vitamins, and stress levels.

Most occurrences of tying up are fairly mild, but sometimes the condition can lead to severe kidney problems or death. It is important that veterinary intervention be obtained immediately to avoid resultant muscle/kidney damage. It is important that you be able to recognize the signs of tying-up, which may present similar to those of colic with the exception that tying-up will always occur after a horse has been worked.

The most common signs of your horse tying-up are:

• Notable discomfort - flared nostrils, anxiousness, pawing ground, sweating, pale gums
• Short-strides/muscle stiffness, particularly in the hind quarters
• Bunching up/cramping up of muscles across the croup and hindquarters
• Elevated pulse/respiration
• Dark colored urine, or straining to urinate several times

What you should do if you believe your horse is tying-up:

• Call your veterinarian immediately and provide him with a synopsis of vital signs: pulse, respiration, etc. Describe to him what your horse is experiencing.
• Blanket your horse to prevent chills, which will exacerbate the muscle cramping
• Offer your horse water and encourage him to drink. Water will flush his kidneys of the toxins built up in his muscles.

What you should not do if you suspect your horse of tying-up:

• Do not move your horse, as any movement will further damage his muscles
• Do not allow your horse to lie down
• Do not administer any pain or other meds to your horse without veterinarian approval

What to do to prevent your horse from tying-up:

• Feed a low carbohydrate/high fat diet
• When not working your horse adjust the amount of grain fed.
• Warm-up your horse before exercise, and then cool him down afterwards. 10-15 minutes of walking before and after should adequately warm-up/cool down your horse.
• Do not over-exercise your horse.

Responsible horse ownership dictates that we are ever vigilant and knowledgeable about what conditions may afflict our horses. Recognizing the signs above and knowing how to react will potentially save the life of your horse.

Happy trails!

Open Wide and Say, "Ahhhhh" : A Guide To Equine Dental Health Care

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

The one aspect of horse health care that is most widely overlooked by horsemen is dental health care. Some horse owners may have owned horses for many years and never once thought about having their horses' teeth examined. If you wait until there are obvious signs that a dental problem may exist, your horse has already had to endure a long period of pain. However, regular dental care (twice yearly) and examinations will prevent painful dental conditions and should be high on the list of what responsible horse owners provide our horses.
Dental examinations can be performed by veterinarians, equine dentists, or farriers who have also received training in equine dentistry. While costs for such dental services may vary between regions or occupations, the cost should be somewhere between $30 - $80.
When examining your horse's mouth, the dental professional will look for tell-tale signs of dental problems such as:

• Molars that may be cracked or have sharp or jagged edges that have rubbed/cut the cheek and tongue
  
• Trapped pieces of grain (in the cracks) that could develop into an abscess
  
• Wolf teeth that will interfere with the seating of the bit along the bars of the mouth
  
• Deciduous (baby/milk) teeth that may not allow proper eruption of permanent teeth
  
• Tooth misalignments that interfere with proper chewing or seating of the bit
  
• Inflammation and periodontal disease of the gums

If a problem is determined to exist, the dental professional will "float" your horse's teeth, which means a speculum will be inserted into the mouth to hold it open and a rasp will be introduced to file down the jagged edge, smooth out a crack, or even up a misalignment. Not all dental professionals will use a speculum; however, it is best if they do because the horse's tongue can best be maneuvered away from the rasp.
Dental health care should begin at foal age and continue throughout the geriatric years. Following is a developmental guide of your horse's mouth and what a dental professional may encounter upon examination:

• 0 - 2 Years
  Examinations of a foal's mouth will ensure that his teeth are erupting (coming in) properly. As the foal ages and progresses to his yearling and 2nd year, the equine professional will ensure that his 24 deciduous (baby or milk) teeth have properly come in and will remove his wolf teeth (pointy little teeth that come in just in front of the cheek teeth).
  
• 2 - 3 Years
  Permanent teeth begin to come in at 2-3 years of age. This is also the time when the cheek teeth come in. The deciduous teeth will be shed as the permanent teeth erupt.
  
• 4 - 5 Years
  By the age of 5 years, all permanent teeth should be in. Canine teeth will erupt in male horses between the ages of 4 - 5 years. The canine teeth may need to be trimmed to ensure that the bit will fit well and comfortably in your horse's mouth. The dental professional will check for impactions (teeth that do not erupt entirely) that may lead to abscesses.
  
• 6 Years and Beyond
  Sharp/jagged edges or points begin to be an issue in horses that have reached their 6th year and up. Untreated teeth may lead to tooth decay, inflammatory gum disease, and early permanent tooth loss.

Implementing a twice-annual dental care plan into your regimen of equine health care for your horse will allow him to have a lifetime of no serious dental abnormalities or problems. It is just one additional small way that we can provide the best care for our beloved horses.

Happy trails!

Bridling: How to Achieve this Simple Task

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Throughout my many years of being in and among various horsemen, I have noticed how some riders will make the simple task of bridling into a complex and, often times, aggravating experience for both horse and rider, with the end result being a hanked-off rider and a horse with banged-up teeth after having a bit forced into his mouth. Each time I've seen this happen, I've told myself it doesn't have to be this way. Teaching a horse to drop its head and willingly accept a bit and the entire bridling experience is as simple as allotting some training time prior to heading out on the trail. Bridling should be done with fluid movement and be a steady and smooth process. The mouth and head of a horse are very sensitive. Many horses will adversely react to roughness or an overly invasive and timely production of getting the bridle set. Following are some training tips that I have utilized in training my horses to be bridled:

• The first step is to teach your horse to drop his head. I have utilized one of two methods to do this. The first is to place my hand on his poll (area just behind his ears and top of his neck) and apply gentle pressure. Applying too much pressure will be met with resistance and your horse trying to raise his head up. Gentle pressure will induce him to drop his head.
  Initially, when he drops his head release the pressure and reward him with a pat. Continue with gentle pressure at the poll until he stands with his head dropped.
  The second method I have used to affect the lowering of his head is to apply pressure to his forehead with my finger. Follow the same steps until you get the end of result of his standing with head dropped.
  
• After your horse drops his head have your bridle ready, holding the poll straps with one hand and the bit with other, with the reins draped over (not wrapped) your forearm. Along with the bit have a horse treat in hand. Standing to the side of your horse's head, hold the bridle in form (poll portion up and bit approaching mouth). Do not allow your horse to have the treat unless he takes the bit. He will come to associate accepting the bit with receiving a treat.
  
• Gently set the bit along the bars behind your horse's teeth before you move the poll portion of the bridle upward. Once the bit is comfortably positioned, move on to correctly place the poll straps behind the ears and buckle the chin strap loosely.
  
• Adjust/check the curb strap/chain, if you ride with one. You should be able to insert two fingers between the strap/chain and chin.

The process for removing the bridle is just as important as installing it.

• Remove the reins from around the horse's neck and drape (not wrap) them over your forearm.
• Ask your horse to once again drop his head by implementing one of the above methods.
• Standing by the side of your horse's head, undo the chin strap. Place one hand on the poll straps and position the other on the bit. Remove the poll straps over the ears and proceed using a downward angle that matches the pitch of your horse's face. Once your hand reaches just below the eyes, gently remove the bit, making sure you don't rattle the metal against your horse's teeth.

Perfecting the art of bridling before you ride will make the experience much more pleasant for you and your horse. Practice bridling and unbridling any time you are grooming or working with your horse. The time you take to teach your horse to drop his head and become comfortable with bridling will make the process go much smoother when you are ready to hit the trails.

Happy trails!

Horse Health - It's no "Choking" Matter

Choke in Horses: Emergency Handling and Prevention

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Choke is, as its name implies, a condition that occurs when the esophagus of a horse becomes blocked by a substance (normally poorly-chewed and hastily swallowed grain or hay, but can also include pieces of wood/bark, or other debris the horse may get in its mouth) and renders the horse unable to swallow and breathe properly. Choke can be caused by eager eaters that eat their food quickly, with ineffective chewing. Also, poor dental health will prevent a horse from properly chewing its food. It can occur in horses of all ages. It is a serious condition that can be fatal and requires immediate veterinary assistance.

Choke can present itself either as chronic (multiple occurrences) or acute (occurring occasionally). A horse that has choked more than once is predisposed to develop an acute susceptibility, as each incidence of choke weakens a portion of the esophagus.

You can identify choke if your horse displays some or all of the following indicators:

• Coughing
• Appearance of foodstuffs coming from the nostrils (regurgitation)
• Frequent attempts at swallowing
• Excessive salivation
• Colic-like symptoms of sweating and distress (wild-eyed appearance, slinging of head, constant working of the mouth, etc.)
• The appearance of a palatable mass in the upper part of the neck (where the upper esophagus lies).

Anyone who has witnessed choke can tell you how unnerving it is to see your horse experience this condition. The following are steps to take when you discover your horse is choking:

• Stay calm; don't panic.
• Call your veterinarian immediately and definitively advise him that your horse is experiencing choke. This will light a fire under them to get them to your barn quickly.
• Remove all food items and water from the area your horse is in (stall, paddock, etc.)
• Keep your horse calm. If possible, move him to a quiet place.
• Do not attempt to dislodge the mass of food from the esophagus, because you could exacerbate the problem by damaging the esophagus or by diverting the blockage into the lungs, which would cause pneumonia to develop. As hard as it is to watch your horse in distress, leave the treatment for your veterinarian to professionally undertake.

Once your veterinarian arrives he will administer a tranquilizer/sedative to calm your horse. He will then insert a tube into the horse's mouth, through which water will be flushed to dislodge the object.

Prevention is key and measures can be easily implemented into your feeding regimen for horses prone to choke or to simply prevent any of your horses from developing Choke:

• For overzealous eaters, place a few fist-sized rocks (about 6" - 8" in diameter) in the feed trough. This will require your horse to slow down his eating as he moves the rocks around the feed pan to get to the grain.
• Soak pelleted feed in water to expand their size and soften their consistency.
• Break up hay cubes and/or soak them in water to make them easier to chew and swallow.
• Cut apples, carrots, pears, etc. into small slices, not large hunks, quarters, halves, or wholes.

Staying ever vigilant to your horse's behavior and following wise husbandry guidelines will keep your horses healthy and choke free.

Happy trails!

Every Time, Every Ride, Helmets Save Lives

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Whenever we saddle up and head out on the trails for a nice relaxing ride, the furthest thing from our mind is that we may end up having to spend time in a hospital emergency room due to a fall from our horse; however, those of us who are seasoned riders know that it is not a matter of "if" I fall from the saddle, but "when". We are subject to possible ejection each and every time we sit in the saddle. There are so many factors that can play into any unexpected dismount: rider error, terrain inconsistencies, unexpected stimuli causing a horse to react; tacking issues/problems, etc. The list could go on and on.

Traumatic brain injury is the most highly attributable cause of horse-related injuries and mortality events. Horseback riders sustain more head injuries than participants in other sporting and recreational events such as football, hockey, and bicycling. Yet, those who participate in the sport of leisure trail riding are less likely to protect themselves when enjoying the avocation of horseback riding.

Throughout the many years that I have actively campaigned for rider safety, I have heard many excuses from riders not wanting to wear helmets. Some of those excuses are: "I trust/know my horse", "My horse is well trained", "My horse is bomb-proof", "I'm a skilled rider", "Cowboys don't wear helmets", "You've got to go sometime", "I don't like helmet hair", "Helmets are too hot/heavy/cumbersome". It is evident that sometimes vanity, machismo, and pride prevent some from providing themselves with the life saving protection from riding accidents that helmets afford.

I was once one of those people who felt that helmet wearing was a sign of weakness; either in my own riding ability or in trust of my horse's training. That was until I personally witnessed someone who sustained and irreparable traumatic brain injury. My friend's accident occurred 20 years ago, and she remains wheelchair bound and cognitively challenged as a result of her brain injury. Her wearing a helmet on that fateful day those many years ago would have prevented such serious injury. It was a sobering moment for me, and from that point forward I have worn a helmet each and every time I have mounted a horse.

Many states within the United States, as well as other countries have laws and/or governing regulations that require children wear helmets when riding. Mandates within many public and private riding entities require helmets be worn by riders. While I would not be an opponent of a government implied law requiring all equestrians to wear a helmet, I would first like to see an increase in the number of riders who personally want to provide protection from head injuries for themselves.

Today's helmets are light weight and comfortable. There are several styles and types from which to choose, not to mention a myriad of colors. Riding helmets should bear the "ASTM" or "SEI" seal, which indicates they have been tested for protection and durability. Finding a helmet that you can comfortably ride in is quite possible if not ascertained.

I have read somewhere that it only takes 21 days of repetitious action to transform an action into habit. I would challenge each of you who currently do not wear a helmet when riding to begin developing this habit. Every time, every ride; the life you save will be your own.

Happy trails!

Recognizing the Signs of Laminitis

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Laminitis is most likely the disease for which veterinarian treatment is most often sought by horse owners of every ilk and discipline. While laminitis is a very painful disease that affects a horse's feet, the exact cause for it may lie in another part of the horse's body or it can be a result of stress. Laminitis is believed by some to only affect the front feet; however, as in the case of Barbaro (TB), winner of the 2006 Kentucky Derby, it compromised his hind feet and ultimately led to the decision of his euthanization. Another notable great who had succumbed to laminitis was Secretariat. Laminitis occurs when blood flow is disrupted to the laminae in the foot, which secures the coffin bone to the hoof wall. The laminae within the hoof becomes inflamed and swollen putting pressure on the coffin bone, shifting it downward, or rotating it, toward the sole of the foot. While it is not completely understood how the damage to the laminae occurs, a number of preceptors have been identified in setting the stage for laminitis. The most prevalent of these is poor digestion, which enables toxins to form and enter the horses's bloodstream. Falling within the poor digestion category are horses that have engorged themselves with grain or lush green grass, which puts their digestive systems in a quandary. Post-partum mares that have retained a portion of placenta will have increased blood toxins that could trigger an acute laminitis episodic event. Diseases such as Cushings or hypothyrodism are two medical conditions that initiate the onset of laminitis. Corticosteroid therapies may generate the development of it, as well. Hoof impact stresses on hard surfaces may spark-off an attack of laminitis. Barbaro was felled by laminitis due to the stress his near-hind foot bore while his badly broken off-side leg was placed in a cast. There are two stages of laminitis: acute and chronic. Recognizing the signs of laminitis and immediately contacting your veterinarian will greatly increase your chances of your horse healing and/or surviving his bout with laminitis. An acute stage is the sudden onset of laminitis. Signs of acute laminitis include the following:

• Lameness in front and/or hind legs. Particularly noticeable when your horse turns in a circle.
• Heat in the hoof
• Increased digital pulse in the feet. (You can find the digital pulse by palpating the inside or outside of the leg toward the back of the mid-pastern or fetlock.) A strong pulse will be indicative of laminitis. If you are unsure what you are feeling for, I suggest you 'practice' finding the digital pulse on a healthy horse. While such a pulse will be very slight, you will know where and how to find it if your horse has a laminitic episode.
• Hesitant walking or the appearance of "walking on eggshells".
• Standing position with front feet stretched out and hind feet well under the horse bearing most of the weight.

Chronic laminitis occurs in a horse that has had previous acute onsets of the disease. Signs of chronic laminitis may include:

• Dished hooves (caused by uneven hoof growth)
• Bruised soles
• Rings in the hoof wall
• Dropped soles/flat feet
• Wide white line (seedy toe)
• Blood pockets and/or abscesses (usually seen with seedy toe)

If you believe your horse has laminitis, phone your veterinarian immediately. Limit the movement of your horse to prevent further damage or rotation of the coffin bone. Pain management will be the first treatment administered, as laminitis is very painful. Additional treatments may include the use of anti-toxin medications, meds that will increase blood circulation, and x-rays to evaluate the extent of rotation. Convalescence and healing will take weeks, if not months; however, if you obtained medical intervention quickly, it is very likely that your horse will be able to be ridden again. Much depends upon the degree of rotation, if any. Any marked rotation of the coffin bone, as evidenced by x-ray, will require a convalescent period upwards from 8 months, which is the amount of time required for the damaged areas to grow out. If there was no rotation, your horse may be able to be ridden after two months of rest and healing. Prevention of laminitis, whenever possible, is the best cure. Properly house your grain in an area that is not accessible to your horse. Do not turn your horse out on a lush green pasture. If your horse is overweight, establish an exercise regime for weight loss. Implement nutrient supplements into your feeding plan to enhance digestibility of foods; proper and timely hoof trimming providing a well-balanced foot will offset chances of any mechanical stress triggers; inspect the placenta (after birth) of your mare, calling your vet if any pieces appear missing. Quick action on your part will increase the chances of your horse returning to a productive life. As always, stay vigilant and observant of your horse's behaviors and actions, as these will be your first clues to an impending problem.

Happy trails!